Daily Log: Indonesia, Here We Come!

Tipperary Waters Marina farewell to Uncle Joel Curry and Uncle Curtis Rigney.

7-30-2017 At Sea After Darwin

Eric: 1:00 am. Left Tipperary Waters Marina yesterday. Uncle Curtis and Uncle Joel returned Bryce and Trent to the boat from Zen Hotel at 6:30 am. I was still asleep having rebuilt the head and solved the RO unit’s airlock problem up until 1:45 am. Took last hot water shower for a while during which Bryce and Trent rinsed the deck with fresh water one last time. Said our goodbyes to Curtis and Joel. Sad. They were so generous to us. Their presence with us made Darwin a special stop. Entered lock at 8:15 am.

Eric Rigney getting Kandu in position for the start of Sail Indonesia Rally.

Motored for 60 minutes to the start line. Passed the start line 5 minutes behind the first boat under sail. Curtis and Joel hitched a ride on the committee boat, Spirit of Darwin; we saw them waving. We sounded our siren and air horn and waved goodbye while Trent made bubbles. Flew genoa, staysail and main. Lots of fun sailing so close to other boats. Very festive!

Trent Rigney bubbling-it-up at the start line of Sail Indonesia 2017.

Winds bearing to broad on starboard. Sailed 7 knots average for first 6 hours. Great start. Delorme inReach not working. Frustrating. Another thing to fix. Ugh! Tonight, winds are light. We’re motor sailing with several boats, about 4-5 nearby. Pleasant. I had a terrible headache before dinner. Thought my head was going to explode. Must not have drank enough water. Better now. RPM meter having problems. Another must repair.

Leslie: 7:00 am. Beautiful sunrise and sky: mauve color at the horizon until just before the rising of the sun, changing color to a fluorescent-like brilliant salmon color, then morphing to yellow rose or peach. Now the sun is peaking out. The small crescent shape changes quickly into a half sphere. A minute later the entire body of the sun is a brilliant incandescent yellow ball of fire. From its first appearance to completed sphere the process is less than 3 minutes. Once above the horizon, the blazing ball is so bright that I can no longer stare at it. My vision has sun spots. The color of the ocean was black and now it’s indigo. There is just a slight breeze dimpling the sea; it doesn’t have the smooth mirror quality when there is no wind. We are motor-sailing. The light swell is perhaps 6 seconds apart and 2 feet high. Our sails are constantly luffing making shuffling noises. The engine keeps us in a forward direction at just under 4 knots.7:20 am. The sun has risen a foot above the horizon lighting up the entire sky. Wispy clouds of soft grey purple still reside in the west. The clouds are too far away to be color infused by the brilliant ball of flame. 7:23 am – only just now do I sense heat radiating from the sun’s powerful flames. It’s going to be a hot day on the sea if the wind doesn’t pick-up. During the sunrise, I’ve been sipping my mocha and munching on apple slices plus day-old carrot bread that I prepped in advance to munch during the sunrise show. Four boats from our ‘Sail Indonesia’ fleet are plugging along northside of us. We’re all traveling a similar speed, motoring steadily along. I think we’ll raise the gennaker today. It looks like the weather conditions will be perfect for it.

Kandu flying her colorful gennaker and staysail.

8-2-2017. We made it to Indonesia and are anchored off Timor just outside the city of Kupang, our check-in destination, also Captain William Bligh’s ultimate arrival destination after being set adrift by mutiny first mate Christian Fletcher. Approaching the anchorage, we passed many fish pod bouys bobbing up and down. The south-western coastline up until the city is dotted with industrial-type manufacturing plants. Not many other structures. The flat land is dry, covered in yellowed plant-life. It is the dry season. Not mountainous in the southern part of Timor, the scenery is stark. Coming up on the anchorage, the many seaside block buildings announce a substantial population.

Kupang waterfront ocean viewpoint, Timor, Indonesia.
Kupang, Timor, Indonesia dinghy beach and waterfront.

Immediately surrounding the anchorage, cement houses are built atop boulders at the water’s edge. There is a small section of beach left vacant for dinghies and swimming. We later discovered that the town uses that beachside area for its public events.

Our check-in process went smoothly. All the officials were assembled in one room. We were boarded by 5 people: one was a jilbad head covered woman who acted as translator. They asked if we had drugs or alcohol. We admitted to both: morphine to counter the pain of Eric’s occasional bouts with kidney stones, and some bottles of rum and wine in our alcohol bin. They wanted to see the morphine, which I store in a plastic Kirkland vitamin bottle. The packet wrapped in unopened plastic is still intact since we first brought it aboard in January 2015. I explained that Eric hasn’t had to use it, but we have it on hand just in case. Regarding the alcohol, they simply indicated that we musn’t bring it ashore. We soon discovered that delicious inexpensive Bintang beer is available throughout Indonesia. In the hot heat of Kupang, a chilled beer hits the spot!

The Kandu guys: Eric Rigney, Trent Rigney and Bryce Rigney.

6 thoughts on “Daily Log: Indonesia, Here We Come!”

  1. Dear All, I had jump up and locate Timor on our giant world map.
    Amazing! Now you are just a hop,skipped and three jumps from the Mediterranean. (Just kidding…) Love to each of you. May the winds continue to be fair.

    I don’t think you would believe me that the last two days in Ventura hit 108 degrees – but it is true! Who says no climate change? Xox, betsyandgary

  2. Hi Eric,
    A fantastic experience! My sister sailed around the world back in 1977 on a 152 Ft sail boat and still reflects what a marvelous life experience it was and the friends she made are still in her life. Good for you for taking chances! Great sailing!!!

  3. Yes – Timor is not well known that’s for sure. We didn’t know much about Indonesia before sailing to this side of the world. And wow! What an incredible discovery it has been. Too bad it is 20 hours away by plane – the cultures and colors here are beautifully diverse and brilliantly distinct. We’re loving it! Regarding weather…I cannot believe it hit 108 in Ventura. My parents have been periodically mentioning how hot the summer and fall have been in Northern California too. Nuts. Hugs and kisses back to you two! Leslie

  4. I worried about you and the hurricanes. Glad that you missed the danger… it looks a lot more inviting and calm where you are. You are truly world citizens!

    We had a friend stay with us for a week after being evacuated from her home in Santa Rosa (big fire). Fortunately, so far, her home is intact. But it is still too damned hot. Remains a danger of new fires. We are safe here in Novato.

  5. Happy Halloween! Great to hear from you Roger. There is a pretty big low brewing north of us near Thailand right now. It is supposed to move west of the peninsula…I don’t believe it is hurricane strength. In this part of the world, we are not in hurricane season…we are just moving into their wet season having recently crossed north over the equator. My parents have been keeping us informed about the horrible disasters plaguing the US – hurricanes and fires. 5000 Napa Valley homes destroyed is horrible. Glad that you guys are safe in Novato. Hope the weather turns cooler for you soon. Often Halloween marks a weather change. Hugs, Leslie

  6. Hello Penny – a 152 foot sailboat is a very big boat. I wonder if she was a crew member? Yes – this lifestyle is life changing due to it’s challenges, many incredible sights, sounds, tastes, and the most wonderful people you meet. I’m certain that many we’ve met will continue to remain life long friends. Thanks for writing! Leslie

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