Tag Archives: A’akapa

Rounding the Southwest corner of Nuku Hiva

This is a posting that Eric sent to the world cruiser’s fabulous resource: www.noonsite.com back in 2016. It was never posted to our site and he thought with the upcoming 2019 Pacific crossing season approaching, our past knowledge might come in handy to the newbie Pacific Puddle jumpers. Some of the details may be a little dated, but things are slow to change in the Marquesas.

Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. We anchored in the little inlet for almost a year: June 2015-May 2016.

June 2015, Leslie, Bryce (13), Trent (11), and I arrived from the Galapagos Islands in the Marquesas aboard Kandu, our 42-foot Tayana sailboat. Intending to stay only a few weeks, we remained nearly a year, becoming certified residence in the administrative capital of Taiohae, Nuku Hiva. Our sons would be the first Americans to attend Taiohae’s middle-school. Having been in Nuku Hiva as long, we thought it helpful to share some recommendations as to what to see and do were one to have 1-5 days to spend and cooperative weather. A detailed guide written by Rose Corsair points out the nearby historical sites and is available at her shop on the west side of the bay. So, here’s a short-list, in order of priority. Of course, spending more time at any one or more of these locations is preferable. Note: Although many services are described, this is meant mostly to serve as a sailing cruiser’s touring guide, getting the most out of Nuku Hiva in the shortest time, and does not provide a comprehensive list of available services.

Taiohae Bay seen from opposite side of the quai.

Standard Polynesian traveling preparations: water, bug spray, sun protection, a good pair of hiking sandals suitable for mud, seawater, and streams, and a roll of toilet paper in a Ziplock.

1^st Day, Taiohae, from east to west

Petit Quai dinghy dock (pronounced “per-TEET KAY”), services listed in order of appearance starting from this popular sailors meeting place:

Snack Vaekai aka Chez Henri (among other languages, Henry speaks English and can help solve most any boat problem the Marquesan way) (meals $8-$10): Internet WiFi with food purchase, mostly Marquesan menu, including the classic Marquesan poisson cru(lime-marinated fresh fish in fresh squeezed coconut milk), fresh squeezed fruit juices or citronade (lime-ade), and individual bananas that you pull from any one of the many stalks hanging along the tent’s edge to accompany your meal. Bananas are consumed here like bread or tortilla chips are in US restaurant. For dessert: gateau beurre(butter cake), ice cream, or firi-firi(French Polynesian donut). No alcohol served (BYOB from Kamake, see below).

Welcoming Quai businesses of Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva

Next stores to Henri’s, a boutique selling nice shirts, skirts, caps, and Hinano stickers, and a dive excursion shop, filling tanks and taking you out, but no classes.

Henri, like a brother to me, shows off a plate of his poisson cru, lime-marinated raw yellow fin tuna.

Then it’s Yacht Services Nuku Hiva (YSNH), Kevin can help you check in and/or with the authorities and help solve boat problems (the American way). He sells Marquesan courtesy flags, souvenirs, and houses one of the island’s premiere tattoo artists: Moana. YSNH can also set you up with one of their many island tours. Laundry and WiFi are just some of the services he offers.

Trash and oil dump location.

Open Market: Fresh fruits and vegetable stand, daily 6am-3pm except Sundays. (4 a.m. Saturday if you want tomatoes!!!)

Chez Celina, in the market place at the end of the quay, serves local dishes, ($6-$10), cold beer, and offers Wi-Fi with a purchase. Serves standard Marquesan fare as well as Marquesan dishes with international spiced variations

Quay restrooms are now payable ($1, or free when you eat at Celina’s), but not yet well maintained. We “lobbied” to improve this circumstance, asking that they have toilet seats, doors, toilet paper, soap and drying towels. Would also like to see the showers working too. There’s a place to hand wash clothes behind the building near the toilets. During rains, the water which is non-potable becomes brown with sediment and can stain clothes. Currently no potable tap water in Taiohae, except one of the three free filtered water stations, none of which are close to the quai.

Communal artisan center, more active when a cruise ship passes through. If you see something you like, buy it. It might not be there tomorrow. When larger cruise ships pull into port, Ua Pou arrives to sell inexpensive black pearls.

Tourist office, with maps and information about the Marquesas. Speak English. Can set you up with Nuku Hiva tours: Richard Dean and Jocylene speak English. Average tour cost $65 pp plus lunch. Tourist office has the best public restrooms on Nuku Hiva!!!!

Saturday morning flea market (marche de puce), 5-6:30am, fresh seafood and prepared foods. Tuna, wahoo, etc. $5/kilo. Live lobster, $15/kilo (out of season Feb-April).

General Stores: Taiohae has 5 general stores and 2 hardware stores. Larssons, next to Kamake sells higher-end items like curries, coconut oil, etc. The store furthest away, past the pharmacy, is open 7 days a week. The one behind Socredo, the only bank, across from the stadium field, is open during lunch, Monday-Sat. Cold anything, including soft drinks, beer ($2.50-$3/can), wine, chocolate, meats, cheese, and ice cream. Fresh baked baguette bread ($0.70) and pastries daily except Sundays and holidays. Kamake open 5:30-11:30am Mon-Sat, 2-6:30pm Mon-Fri, Larsson’s opens later. Fresh vegetables and inexpensive casse-croute(sandwiches) sold in front of Kamake until 11:30am. These general stores offer free truck rides to the Petit Quai if you have a heavy or large purchase, but you have to ask.

Kou’eva Ceremonial Grounds, Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

Kou’eva – Inland ceremonial grounds, restored for traditional cultural festivals. To find it, turn right up the town’s center street, main intersection, between Magasin Kamake and Magasin Larsson. Walk about a mile up, not far from the school bus stop, a super small sign on the right side of street marks right turn toward Taiohae’s reconstructed ceremonial grounds. The walk from the paved street inland along the dirt road is further than you think and which road to take at each informal intersection is not obvious . . . so, ask any passersby, or worst case, walk back and take the other path if you guess wrong.

Chez Bigo Hardware: Walking from Kou-eva back to the seafront, as you descend, you may notice Chez Bigo, the island’s most comprehensive hardware store to your right, just before the bus stop, across the small bridge. They serve cold drinks and packaged snacks like candy bars if the Kou’eva walk zapped your energy.

Moana Nui Restaurant, Pension, and Car Rental – on the main drag, further west after the main intersection. More European than Marquesan menu ($12-$30). Great steak. Serves French-style pizza (no mozzarella cheese for pizza in French Polynesia), beer and wine and mixed drinks. More expensive than the two Petit Quai “Snacks” (cafes), less expensive than Pearl Lodge.

Cathedral Taiohae – Ask permission to enter building. Strict protocols. Rose Corsair, on the westside of the bay, sells a guidebook for Nuku Hiva that includes descriptions of elements within the cathedral. Beautiful woodcarvings inside and out. Sunday mass begins with meditative chants at 7am, regular mass at 8am, ends 9-9:30am. Look for the Marquesan version of the Christian cross (previously Marquesan symbol for southern cross, I think). Butted together, the Marquesan cross figures look like a pattern of men.

Tohua Temehea – Seaside ceremonial grounds, built for traditional cultural festivals since 1989. Read the informational sign on-site (in French and English) for details

Melville Monument – Tucked in on the shore side, neighbouring the western cemetery.
A wonderfully carved large tree stump with weathered roof top and missing elements, shows the path he hiked out of Taiohae and over to Taipi Vai. The monument is reported placed at the beach location where Melville reportedly jumped ship and headed for the hills.

Joel’s Bella Pizza: Great pizza, ($12.50-$18; $3 delivery to Petit Quai), a less expensive alternative to Moana Nui Restaurant’s pizza. The “Indian” and “Petit Quai” versions are our favorites. Better than the pizza are the decadent desserts, tiramisu and cheesecake ($4, large slices)

Restaurant and Marquesas Museum at Chez Rose’s. Rose was an American sailing cruiser who arrived in Taiohae in 1972 with her husband Frank and later returned to stay since 1977. Far west side of bay. Never know when it’s open. Knock. Great exhibit. Sells a great Nuku Hiva guidebook in multiple languages. Restaurant serves an excellent hamburger. Free WiFi, password-free (some anchor their boats at this side of the bay to get closer to her wifi). A more casual Friday night happy hour than Pearl Lodge, Kevin sometimes arranges a complimentary communal taxi for sailors from his YSNH shop on the Petit Quay.

Pearl Lodge – Nuku Hiva’s gorgeous (expensive) bar, restaurant ($18-$40), hotel ($225/night). Very nice! Beautiful view of Taiohae Bay. Friday evening Happy Hour, half off beautiful $14 frou-frou cocktails (or as I see it, two for the price of one!)

Swimming
Remember in the Marquesas, beach equals no-no’s. They breed in the sand between fresh and seawater. Usually, it seems, the whiter the sand, the greater the no-no’s.
Beaches: Kouvea beach on the eastern side of the bay, in front of the French Administrator’s residence. To the west, in front of Rose’s place, there’s a beach but more no-no’s than Kouvea. And over the western hill, there’s Colette’s Bay, see “Hikes” below.

Sharks?

Cleaning boat bottoms and swimming in the bay have not been a problem for us or anyone else. Locals say sharks are a problem, but Kevin from Nuku Hiva Yacht Services and the Fire Dept. haven’t heard of an actual incident. Kevin says he is never concerned about jumping in to the bay to fix a boat.
That said, I would not advise swimming near the Petit Quai as sharks feed on fishermen’s scraps. Still, many cruisers have dived here, jumping in after fallen items, without incident.

Hikes (Randonee, in French)

Sentinal/East bay mouth

Moderate, but sometimes steep. Bring water. No facilities.
Between 1.5 and 2 hours R/T at steady pace.
Leave early in the morning, before it gets hot, before 7 am is best. Take upper road above fuel station to maintained dirt path. Ask any locals how to get to the start.

Taiohae overview vista, walk up the center road, as done for Kou’eva, until you get to the top for a stunning view (hitch hike if you don’t want to walk).

Colette’s Bay, over the ridge on the other side of the bay’s west side, . . . path starts above Rose’s motel. Turn right above the motel, then another immediate right, walking down and curving left. Stay on main dirt road until your reach top of saddle/ridge. Turn left, opening and closing the barbed-wire gate. (If you turn right, you’re on your way to Hakaui Bay, a much further hike, so ask in advance where the paths turn). Colette’s Bay is where Survivor Marquesas filmed their challenges. Great swimming beach. Remember, beach equals no-no’s.

2^nd Day, Car Tour

Pre-arrange a guide in Taiohae for a driving tour ($50-$120pp). Richard, Jocylene, and Kevin speak English. Ask Tourism Office, Henri, Rose, or Kevin to help you find a guide. Or go solo, diesel 4×4 rental is about $120/day plus fuel.

Self-guided?

Taipi Vai, Tohua ceremonial grounds (toilets often available) w/modern stone tiki.
Hoomi, see church and visit with Pena, a sculptor (toilets available in Hoomi).
Hatiheu Ceremonial Grounds

Ron Dennis indicating the ancient petroglyphs depicting a mahimahi, Hatiheu
Hatiheu
- Road from Taipi Vai to Hatiheu and beyond becomes rough dirt and washed out rock, requiring 4×4.
- Once arrived, visit the archeological ceremonial grounds, see petroglyphs
- Check out the Marquesan history exposition. Great history of Anaho too.
- Virgin Mary statue atop pinnacle southwest side of bay.
- Chez Yvonne’s for lunch (toilets available). Feed a piece of baguetteto the fresh water eels adjacent her restaurant.
Aakapa vista point, beautiful Attitoka mountain ridge.
Aakapa Bay and Attitoka Mountain Range
- From Hatiheu to Aakapa and especially beyond, requires 4×4 driving skill. If it were raining, I’d pass on going to Aakapa and/or beyond.
- Some drive from there (Aakapa) directly to the airport, but told the brush surrounding this un-maintained dirt road can scratch cars.
Drive across central plateau toward airport (or from airport, depending on how you drove there). This area is called ‘Too Vii’ or as some call it, mini-New Zealand, with its fresh air and pines. Stop at vista points at the top of the mountain ridge, including Nuku Hiva’s Grand Canyon.

3^rd Day, Hakatea Bay and Hakaui Valley

Before sailing over, quickly stop off at one of the nearby stores and buy fresh baguettes in Taiohae to give to Hakaui locals that same day. Nice gift.

Leave Taiohae, sail west to Hakatea, 1-1.5 hr motorsail, and anchor on the eastern bay aka “Daniel’s” Bay, where Survivor was shot. Daniel passed away a few years ago. This is also the bay where not so long ago a German sailor was murdered by an emotionally troubled man, currently serving time in Papeete. Careful, lots of no-no’s (noseums), some even fly to the anchored boat.

Walk west along bay’s north shore to Hakaui Bay.

Wade through river to other side (good place to run your dinghy to give it a fresh water internal rinse). Along the start of your way up the path to the waterfall, make lunch reservations for your return trip (4 hrs R/T) with one of the valley families. Teiki and Kua, as you enter the village, are favorites, but all meals from any family here are great. $10pp. Warning: Don’t take Teiki’s picture without permission! Easier if you dine at his place.

Friends Kua and Teiki showed Rosie Dennis Marquesan amity when we visited the Hakaui waterfall.

Continue walking deeper inland toward one of the world’s most breathtaking waterfalls, following a not so carefully marked path. Walking through the stream is sometimes safer than negotiating slippery rocks and tree trunks over the stream. After three trips prior, we went with a guide, Thierry, and saw three times as much, and more safely.

WARNING: Rocks can fall from atop, esp. the open field closest to the falls. Move quickly and quietly when adjacent cliffs. Don’t attempt this hike if raining, or rain predicted as flash floods are likely. Swimming to the very base of the falls places you in danger of falling rocks. Fresh water eels live in the ponds and stream. Not harmful, but they often nip at your legs.

Wear bug repellent and re-apply after swimming in waterfall pond.

4^th Day, Anaho Bay

Sail to Anaho, on the northeast corner of Nuku Hiva. About a 6-hour motor-sail. Careful of the rock on the SE corner of the island, off Controller Bay and Tikapo pt.

One of the most scenic and protected bays in the Marquesas, Anaho is where Marquesans go to vacation. Can’t help but sing Rogers and Hammerstein’s Bali Hai when I turn the corner to enter the bay.

To protect the coral, anchor south of the coral-carved dinghy path, cut to the shore.

Kandu in Anaho Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas

Good snorkeling, safe (no sharks, sometimes jellyfish), clear, often times manta rays. Don’t eat any fish caught there. (Ciguatera).

Fresh spring water available from a free-running hose on the beach for drinking and bathing.

Careful, no-no’s on the beach and even more so to the east. Good surfing and a plantation on the beach over the small hill to the east. Be warned—mega no-no’s on the beach, so run to the surf. Moana Sr., owns the fruit and vegetable farm and has re-opened a small pension in Anaho that serves meals. This makes two pensions that sometimeserve meals, but difficult to count on. Usually about $10 a large plate of local fare.

Many artisans live in Anaho Bay, including a well-known Marquesan tattoo artist, Moana (Jr.), when he’s not in Taiohae at Kevin’s YSNH.

Lastly, a nice hike up and over western ridge of Anaho to Hatiheu. There and back (2.5 hr R/T), start early as it gets hot. Easier coming back than going. Some brag they walk it in half the time. Again, Chez Yvonne’s, a restaurant popular with cruise ship tourists, is in Hatiheu.

5^th Day, Controller’s Bay a.k.a. Taipi Vai (South) or Hanapani (North), let the swell decide:

If the swell is coming from the north, then better to go south. Taipi Vai is where Herman Melville lived for a couple weeks and about which he later wrote his first novel, Typee. From Anaho, sail east then a sharp turn south along the east coast toward the SE corner of Nuku Hiva (careful, there’s still that killer rock off the point to watch out for).

Once in Controller Bay, there are three smaller bays from which to choose: Hoomi to the east, Hakapuvai/Hakapaa to the west (only good if no swell), and Taipi Vai in between. Coral surrounds these bays, so anchor in the middle of them.

Hakapuvai & Hakapaa, are private properties, owned by local families. Together these two beaches comprise the other Survivor beach.

We anchor in Hakapaa, the bay to starboard, more easterly, where you may spot pigs roaming the beach and might fumble your way to the pretty waterfall and pool (easy, short hike) in the back, to the west (left when facing inland from your cockpit).
Hakapuvai, to the west, has a beach of shells, excellent for combing.
Snorkeling over coral is possible in both bays.
Occasionally no-no’s can reach the boat.

If the swell is coming from the south, may be better to go north to Hanapani Bay, northwest Nuku Hiva.

Haven’t visited this bay yet, but have been told by those who have that when the swell allows, for those who prefer remote white-sand beaches and clear water without other boats nearby, this is the place to be. It’s just west of Aakapa. Aakapa is not good for anchoring. Pua, further west than Hanapani, is quiet as well, but its landscape is a tad less “magnifique.”

If you’re planning to visit Nuku Hiva, I hope this little outline helps you get the most from your visit. If you’re in the Marquesas and not planning to visit Nuku Hiva, I hope this outline entices you to reconsider. See hello to Henri for me. I love that guy!

All the best! Eric Rigney – SY Kandu

While we were in the Marquesas, we sailed over to Hiva Oa to witness the Marquesan Festival that occurs every two years. It was worth planning around!!

Matava’a Hiva Oa Opening Ceremony: December 16th 2015

Educational, Experiential, Guest's Notes, Marquesas

Rosie’s Marquesas Adventure in September 2015

May 11, 2016 admin 2 Comments

It took two days via two jet planes from San Francisco to Hawaii, across the equator to Tahiti traveling 4,000 miles, before we boarded a third plane, this one a twin propeller plane, to cross the last 700 miles of ocean to finally arrive at the 131 square mile island of Nuka Hiva. Nuku Hiva is the administrative capital of the Marquesas Islands where our beloved family eagerly awaited to greet us, then gleefully adorned our travel-weary necks with layer upon layer of both amazing floral and wonderfully beaded necklaces. We could hardly believe how much our two grandsons had grown. (Yes, they loved that they’re now both taller than their Nani.)

Rosie & Ron's arrival at Nuku Hiva Airport — Rosie & Ron’s arrival at Nuku Hiva Airport

Nuku Hiva is the largest and most northern of the Marquesas Islands. Its small airport (a runway so small, they mustn’t completely fill the plane with passengers and are very strict on weight) is located on the northern side of the island, directly opposite the south facing bay of Taiohae where the Rigney family’s sailboat Kandu is anchored. While making the trek from the airport, it seemed like every switchback offered a more beautiful view of Nuku Hiva’s lush, jagged mountainsides.

Rosie, Ron, Bryce and Trent posing in front of Nuku Hiva's Grand Canyon on the way to Taiohae — Rosie, Ron, Bryce and Trent posing in front of Nuku Hiva’s Grand Canyon on the way to Taiohae.

Ron enjoying the wind coming up from Terre Desert

We stopped often to photograph our experience, as well as to benefit from continuous hugs. The drive across the island took 1-½ hours over mountainous terrain, paved by the island’s newest road. Unbeknownst to us at that time, the rest of the island’s roads are poorly maintained dirt roads that only 4-wheel drive vehicles can travel.

To make our first week comfortable and luxurious, Leslie and Eric arranged for us to lodge at Heloise and Pifa’s home located high above the seaside village with lovely views of Taiohae bay and her tropical volcanic hillsides.

What made the arrangement even more special was that Leslie stayed with us the whole time we were at the house, taking full advantage of our time together. She also served as our French interpreter. Each morning, after getting the boys off to school, Eric would drive the rented 4-wheel drive diesel pick-up, up the home’s steep roadway to bring us fresh pastries or French baguettes. After school, Eric would then fetch the boys, bringing them to our hillside abode to hang out and later dine. We felt very pampered.

Heloise and Pifa's balcony view — Heloise and Pifa’s balcony views

view from Heloise Chez Heloise w: view

A few days after our arrival, the Falchetto family held a dinner in our honor at the home of Sebastian and Raymonde Falchetto. We gathered to share Marquesan dishes of fresh tuna, fruits, and vegetables. It was a delicious feast of Polynesian tradition and friendship.

We later reciprocated by providing the Falchettos a Mexican dinner, complete with rice, beans, tortillas, margaritas, and colorful handmade paper cutout decorations that the boys and I made and strung along the balcony’s edge. Olé!!!

Ron, Chantale Falchetto, and Rosie posing during the Mexican dinner a la Polynesian.

I want to add that around the homes of Marquesans we were often awakened by the noise of roosters crowing, hens scratching, and family hunting dogs sniffing. They all run loose, along with cats, and all are friendly. The island’s remote South Pacific location limited natural animal migration. Early Polynesians brought pigs, dogs, chickens, and the black rat. Early Europeans rounded the Marquesas’ animal population out by bringing cats, goats, sheep, horses, and cows. Today, Marquesan dogs appear to be of the same “mutt” lineage with some showing a hint of pit-bull. The island’s bird family is limited, consisting mainly of tropic and frigate sea birds, doves, peeping finches, chickens and a protected large grey-black pigeon called upe. There are no predatory animals such as foxes, snakes, wolves, etc. Only the boars can be a potential threat, biting people’s heads if they sleep on secluded beaches (it really happened to a friend of Sebastien’s, yikes!!!).

pigs

Coq running away

One of Ron’s highlights was an archeology speedboat adventure to a remote corner of the island’s un-inhabited eastside. Along with four others, they went to search for samples of unusual basalt used to make ancient tools. The adventure was orchestrated by Sebastien, who had been requested by his friend, Michel, a French archeologist, to travel to a site suspected by Michel as the source of a rare basalt, possibly used to make tools bartered throughout Polynesia, including Hawaii and New Zealand. Rocky terrain and seas made landing a huge challenge for Michel, so Renaissance man, can-do-anything Sebastian volunteered to disembark onto a slippery rock shelf. He successfully located the unique area Michel had hoped for, and extracted samples of the rare basalt, which would later be analyzed in New Zealand and compared against other samples already archived within the lab’s database. While exploring, Sebastien unexpectedly came across what appeared to be a sacred site, filled with various relics. Respectfully, with the sign of white tropicbirds flying above his head, Sebastien left it untouched, much to the dismay of Michel.

Sebastien getting ready with Michel behind studying the site — Sebastien studying the site with Michel behind.

While the men were busy on their adventure, Leslie and I stayed ashore and explored the picturesque bay of Hatiheu, written about by Robert Louis Stevenson. We visited with local and renowned dignitary, Yvonne. Her stories of the history and politics of the Marquesas Islands were insightful. It was two hours of pure fascination. After our coffee chat at her popular seaside restaurant, Leslie and I walked up to Hatiheu’s ancient ruins, marked by stone foundations.

Typical covered home called a paper — Typical covered home called a Paepae.

The center was a gathering place called the Temahea and the surrounding home foundations are called Paepae. It was at this site that we came upon a massive sacred Banyan tree and located ancient petroglyphs carved onto huge, moss-covered boulders. Then our archeological adventurers unexpectedly joined us.

Ron indicating the ancient petroglyphs depicting a mahimahi and sea turtles.

Prominent ancient Marquesan villages always included a Banyan tree as the spiritual center of town — Prominent ancient Marquesan villages always included a Banyan tree as the spiritual center.

The explorers back together: Michel, Sebastien, rosie, Leslie, Eric. Ron took the picture. — The explorers back together: Michel, Sebastien, Rosie, Leslie, & Eric. Ron took the picture.

Together, we left the site and drove to a place where we hiked to the island’s only known naturally carbonated spring. And then we were off, back to Taiohae, over Nuku Hiva’s steep, rugged roads, both dirt and paved. I will never complain about the condition of our California roads again!

Eric collecting natural carbonated springwater — Eric collecting natural carbonated spring water.

Sold as a “not-to-miss” adventure, we were prompted to hike to the tallest waterfall found in French Polynesia located in gorgeous Hakaui valley, just inland from neighboring Daniel’s Bay. We arrived after a 1-½ hour sail from Taiohae, disembarked and walked to the nearby, very small village to greet locals. If asked, for a fee, some families will prepare a local Marquesan lunch upon your return from the typically 4 to 5-hour trek to the waterfall and back. So we put in our reservation and off we hiked for 2-½ hours up and 2 hours back.

Ron, Rosie and Leslie hiking toward the waterfall

Along the way, we carefully waded through several small rivers, endured high heat and humidity, dodged rocks and bugs, and finally entered the valley where mountains soared straight up the canyon’s sheer walls, making us feel like we were mini-aliens. Here we found a freezing cold (tropically speaking) pond that we needed to swim across in order to access the hidden area where the waterfall falls. Ron and I first hesitated, but eventually, encouraged by Bryce and Trent, we swam over to meet up for this unforgettable sight. The sounds and colors were breathtaking! I’ll never forget the fusion of sunlight, mist, and sound.

Hiking party cooling off in the waterfall pool.

Lower view of the waterfall with Bryce and Trent — Lower view of the Hakaui waterfall with Bryce and Trent

While the sand beaches are not desirable for sunbathing due to the nasty No-see-ums, they are fantastic for gathering shells and snorkeling. Our Kandu crew spoiled us by sailing to bays where both of these pastimes were available: Anaho and Taipi Vai.

We especially loved the gathering of “porcelain” shells in Anaho, which could only be reached by taking the dinghy to a rocky tide pool area alongside the neighboring ridge. Also, snorkeling made it fun to gather shells lying amongst the coral. We loved those 2 and 3-day outings where we sailed with the family, enjoying the beauty of the landscape and the thrill of the sail. On a side note, friends of Eric and Leslie are diligent collectors and have amazing assortments of many kinds of seashells found on the islands. We felt privileged to see their personal collections.

Rosie relaxing on Kandu in Taipi Vai bay

Driving inland to the home of Chantale and Denis Tetohu, we experienced the richness of their hospitality. Comfort, generosity, and adventure were what was ahead during our stay with them in Nuku Hiva’s fourth largest (120pp) village, Aakapa. Sisters and brothers were included in our evening meals, so we shared laughter and stories…all translated from French by Leslie and Eric.

Ron, Chantale, Denis & Rosie — Ron, Chantale Falchetto-Tetohu, Denis Tetohu & Rosie

The boys had time off from school, so we all participated in the “feeding of the pigs” at the family pig farm as well as watching our grandsons enjoy the nearby surf. The pigs are a cross of wild boar and semi-domestic pig, used by the family to supplement their meals as well as selling the dressed pigs to local buyers. Pigs are fed coconut by cracking open coconut shells gathered on the property in abundance. The guys showed off their muscles by axing the soon-to-be devoured shells. I felt this day was one of the highlights of the trip.

Aakapa pig feeding: Denis in the background with Bryce and Leslie. Denis captured a chicken for Trent.

Trent w:chicken Another very big highlight was attending a Sunday service at Aakapa’s local Catholic Church. The service and singing were performed completely in Marquesan…so understanding the words was impossible, but the strength of music and holiness captured our hearts especially when Leslie closed by singing “Ave Maria” . . . so lovely.

Aakapa Catholic church with visions of Attitoka in the distance

Local living in Taiohae for the boys includes schooling (all in French), boogie-boarding or surfing, biking to school, playing basketball and volleyball, watching movies on the boat, reading, writing, limited video-gaming, and performing boat chores. Leslie and Eric stay trim by participating in the popular Polynesian sport of outrigger-canoe paddling. Both paddle at least twice a week. Leslie teaches English to locals, mostly French lady friends, twice a week. Eric is involved with keeping the boat in good shape, and befriending the local Marquesans with his ideas and skills. The family is immersed in the culture.

Goodbye dinner at Muana Nui Restaurant with Heloise, Pifa, Sebastien and Raymonde

Our visit to see Leslie, Eric, Bryce and Trent gave us perspective on their lives as they learn about and live in another culture. We met many friendly and loving friends there. Some of them included American cruising sailors. Marquesan or French locals, or international sailors, each one of them generously shared their affection and amity, which we brought home with us with full hearts. Fondly we offer our thanks to so many and for so much. The next time we visit, the boys might very will be just a bit taller than their Papa. We plan to have our next family adventure with them when we visit this fall in Raiatea, next to Bora Bora and Tahiti. Rosie.

We visited three churches and each had exquisite art in sculpture.

Rosie enjoying the many tikis at the Taipi Vai Temeho . — Rosie perusing the many tikis at the Taipi Vai Temehea.

Friends Pua and Taeki showed Rosie Marquesan amity when we visited the Hakaui waterfall. — Friends Kua and Taeki showed Rosie Marquesan amity when we visited the Hakaui waterfall.

Shell collecting in Hakapuvai, one of the three bays of Taipi. — Shell collecting in Hakapuvai, one of the three bays of Taipi Vai.

Marquesan lunch spread after hiking 4.5 hours in Hakaui valley.

Experiential, Leslie's Letters, Leslie's Posts, Marquesas

Leslie’s Letters July-Sept 2015

April 25, 2016 admin 2 Comments

Dear Readers – I am attempting to add a new category to our website in order to catch you up on some of the activities that we as a family have enjoyed here in the Marquesas since arriving. These are edited letters that I have sent to family and friends during our time here. They include dates and places along with my observations and also responses to letters (emails) that I enjoyed from the various correspondents. I have already posted once in this category but didn’t hear if any of you liked it or if you think these kind of postings are uninteresting. Please let me know your thoughts.

Anaho Bay as seen from above while hiking to Hatiheu

July 13, 2015

Dear Mom and Dad – On Wednesday, the 8th of July, we sailed over to the incredibly picturesque bay of Anaho situated on the northeast corner of Nukuhiva. It’s a bay we intend to bring you two when you visit. We had been intending on making our way to Anaho almost from the day we arrived, as it is an extremely calm protected bay with very few sharks. And true to its reputation, the bay was exquisitely beautiful with clear calm water. Anaho is one of the bays that actually has a a coral reef to snorkel. Sadly, in 1983 during the last El Nino, the shallow waters heated up so intensly that most of the coral died. After more than 20 years, it is starting to rejuvenate, but with this year’s El Nino the possibility of it happening again is all too likely.

We followed close behind our new French cruiser friends, husband Guy, wife Marian, and 9 year old Taeva, an adopted Tahitian boy. They live on Tahiti near Papeete. They are very close friends with Raymonde and Sebastien.

Guy and Marian Lejeune are good friends of Raymonde & Sebastien who live on Tahiti and sail on their monohull Manatai.

Ever since we arrived in Taiohae, we have been experiencing a gradually increasing leak from the propeller shaft stuffing box as the coils were no longer sufficiently holding back the water. This repair needed to be done in calm waters with no sharks. In Anaho, Eric and Guy succeeded in fixing the leak working tirelessly on it for an entire day. It was imperative to fix before we left the boat unattended to visit Aakapa, where Denis and Chantale live. Guy helped us so much.

Chantale Falchetto wearing a handmade crown of leaves. It is a tradition for women to make and to wear crowns during celebrations.

Denis Tetohu, Chantale's husband and Police Officer of Aakapa. — Denis Tetohu, Chantale’s husband and Police Officer of Aakapa.

From Anaho we hiked over to Hatiheu where Denis fetched us in his truck. Bryce, Trent and Taeva had left two days prior to Denis and Chantale’s house in Aakapa to prepare a special entertainment for us there once we got the leak repaired. The fourteenth of July (France’s Independence Day) is approaching and all the towns and bays of Nuku Hiva have been ramping up their festivities to celebrate. It turns out that Bryce and Trent were encouraged to participate in the “Miss and Mister Aakapa” competition/fashion show along with Chantale’s young visiting nephews, Mathu and Mauna-iki from Bora Bora (Marquesan born, but Tahitian by culture). What a crazy/fun way to kick-off immersion into present-day Marquesan culture. There were special publicity photos taken of each participant out in natural settings, videos, and rehearsals for 2 days in preparation. They each had three outfits to pageant: a native plant costume, a pareo, and then regular nice street clothes. There were several female participants from Aakapa, but besides the foreigners, only one Marquesan Aakapa boy had the courage to be a part. Guess who won the male contest: the blond-haired, pale-skinned, blue-eyed California boys? Not! It was a great time had by all and during the time the boys hung out with those pretty local girls, they chanced to learn a few French phrases along the way! Eric has always claimed that the best way to learn French is by having a French girlfriend.

Bryce and Trent competing for Mister Aakapa sporting pareos.

After the weekend festivities in Aakapa, we yacht families hiked back to Anaho via Hatiheu to return to our boats. Having been to Anaho many times prior, Marian invited me to join her and Guy on a porcelain shell and pencil urchin hunting excursion among the tide pools. She taught me how to harvest the popular shells and urchins with gloves and a long sharp knife. All new to me, I tagged along trying not to fall on the slippery lava. She captured three urchins, which later that evening we got to taste: salty and slippery to the tongue. I’m not entirely certain we are fans, but the shells and pencil spikes are great prizes. I’ll make sure to keep the spikes for mom’s artwork. I think she will have a creative use for them!

That’s the latest news. All is very well. No major infections or injuries. We are all happy to be among the lovely people of these picturesque isles. XOXOXO

September 2, 2015
Hello Darling Denise,

We are doing very well here in the Marquesas on the island of Nuku Hiva in the bay and village of Taiohae. We are so glad to be here in this relatively quiet bay. It is a large protected bay surrounded by the biggest town in the Marquesas. Most towns here are deep inside valleys. Taiohae markets, stores, homes, administrative offices and the hospital mostly border the waterline, making life on the water convenient.

We have enrolled the boys in school here, and while they don’t speak a lot of French yet, they are picking up words and understanding more and more daily. We speak to them in French too, although not often enough. They get mad at us whenever we push the French not understanding the great opportunity they have to improve their speaking skills with us among family. Oh well!

Trent starting school at College Taiohae.

We have just two aluminum boat bikes that we brought with us, which was creating a little challenge for our family of four since walking and biking are our only modes of transportation on land accompanied by occasional hitch-hiking. This past week, some local friends of ours were in Papeete, Tahiti on vacation and they helped us order two kid BMX bikes for the boys and a couple boogie boards, as our cheap ones from Costco are falling apart. This is their birthday month after all. Yesterday, the boat Aranui III from Papeete arrived. Bryce and Trent were beside themselves excited to get their new toys.

Bryce & Trent's new bicycles parked in front of Henri's Cafe. — Bryce & Trent’s new bicycles parked in front of Henri’s Cafe.

This Sunday, my parents are arriving. We are thrilled to have them for three weeks! I pray that my mother will be able to handle spending time on the boat. Our generous Marquesan friends are putting them up in their lovely house which overlooks the bay for a week to recover from the long trip and to help them get used to the climate change. It is definitely warm and humid here. They will need time to acclimate. The following two weeks we plan to sail to nearby Hakaui Bay (otherwise known as Daniel’s Bay) in order to hike the famous waterfall there, head to Anaho to visit one of the most extraordinarily beautiful bays in Nuku Hiva, hit Taipivai for some shell collecting and then head over by land to Aakapa – a more remote bay – where most of our friends live – to tour the farms, chop down coconuts, feed the pigs and enjoy the practically private beach. Lots of fun plans ahead.

Evidence of Shell Collecting in Taipi Vai.

Presently, I’m hanging out at “Chez Henri’s,” a local restaurant cafe with the best wifi in town. Lessons on ukele are being taught right next door. They sing in harmony….not perfectly, but it is charming to hear. The view is stunning and we get to know more and more people everyday. When you are acquainted with someone, the usual greeting is kisses on the cheek. Everyone goes around and greets and shakes friends’ hands. It’s heartwarming. And sometimes hard to get work done as it’s the best hangout in town, not to mention it’s the central wharf where all the yachties leave their dinghies when provisioning or visiting on land. We tend to know many of the yachties now who have traveled from Mexico to the Galapagos to the Marquesas. Many of them have already been around the world once! Most yachties are allowed only three months to travel in all of French Polynesia, but the ones here right now applied in the states for a year visa, so many are hanging around the Marquesas islands during the hurricane season, which is already appearing in Tahiti with heavy rains and bad weather. This El Nino year is serious. Tahiti and the society islands could get hit hard – and we’re protected here in the Marquesas islands from hurricanes because the islands are located so close to the equator.

Daily life is working out well here for us. It feels good to have some downtime since the last couple years of preparation were challenging to say the least. Hoping you and Jack are doing very well. Hugs,

September 30, 2015

Mom and Dad,
Hello you two. Yes, we did indeed finally get your satellite text responses letting us know you arrived back home safely, and even received the one from this morning asking about Trent’s birthday celebration. To celebrate Trent, we had a great dinner and evening together. For dinner, Trent indicated before heading to school, that he wanted hash browns and bacon. So Eric and I grated potatoes and I found bacon at one of the stores – hurray! Accompanied by sunny side eggs along with my yummy pineapple upside down cake, he was elated. I had also picked-up some coca-cola sodas, sour candies, mentos and cookies as little sweet presents, so both Trent and Bryce were all smiles, feeling spoiled.

Bryce and Trent's September 2015 birthday celebration aboard Kandu turning 14 and 12 years. — Bryce and Trent’s September 2015 birthday celebration aboard Kandu turning 14 and 12 years.

I needed desperately to clean out the fridge and freezer this morning as both were stinking up the boat. The ground beef in the freezer had completely defrosted and leaked out a bloody mess. Yuck! I also washed some laundry yesterday at Raymonde’s and took care of much needed grocery shopping.

We are heading over to the library this afternoon to meet the boys after school to look for some easy children’s French books to read together. The boys have been rather down on the French, thus Eric and I need to pump them up with reading materials that they can tackle and then patiently tutor them along with Stephane, the boys’ French language tutor that they each work with 2 hours per week.

What a great trip home you guys had…broken up into little tour packages in Tahiti and in Waikiki. Thanks for treating Raymonde’s brother Patrick and her boys to dinner. They certainly are handsome young men! And so polite too! I cannot believe all three showed up at the airport with more flowers and bead necklaces for you. Goodness gracious, you must have weighed in an extra five pounds! lol Glad you got a chance to visit the Arizona and Diamond Head in Waikiki.

That was an interesting remark about your impressions seeing Diamond Head: “After appreciating all the incredible views and vistas on Nuku Hiva, the famous view from the Waikiki coastline was anti-climatic.” The last time we were in Waikiki, I was rather disappointed too with all the ugly high rises, heavy traffic and pollution. Yet the surfing at Waikiki beach was truly terrific. On Waikiki, Bryce and Trent had their first experience surfing way back in 2008 when Trent was 4 and Bryce was 6.

Trent's first experience surfing - Waikiki age 4. — Trent’s first experience surfing – Waikiki age 4.

Good news to hear that the smelly urchin shells we collected together made their way to Oakland intact and that there were no customs problems with the many things you brought home for us. I’m sure it will be fun unloading all the treasures we found together during your visit here. Already missing you. Love Leslie.