During our early travels in a moment of crisis, Eric made his way to the mast and had a moment with the powers that be. A message came to him in his mind:
“Sail the wind you have, not the wind you want!”
Very recently, Eric was talking with some close friends about this message. These friends are equestrian lovers – there is a similar idea related to riding horses:
“Ride the horse you’re on, not someone else’s.”
The message Eric received has been an important one aboard Kandu for all four of us. Crew RigneysKandu holds onto that idea along with two others: the Sea Bee motto, “We Kandu!” and the Boy Scout Motto, “Be Prepared!” along with a strong understanding that “Change is Constant.”
While recently helping my parents move from their home in Oakland, in conversation with an older gentleman, I recited Eric’s phrase “Sail the wind you have, not the wind you want,” and he immediately started to recite the following poem:
Tis the Set of the Sail: One Ship Sails East
But to every mind there openeth,
A way, and way, and away,
A high soul climbs the highway,
And the low soul gropes the low,
And in between on the misty flats,
The rest drift to and fro.
But to every man there openeth,
A high way and a low,
And every mind decideth,
The way his soul shall go.
One ship sails East,
And another West,
By the self-same winds that blow,
‘Tis the set of the sails
And not the gales,
That tells the way we go.
Like the winds of the sea
Are the waves of time,
As we journey along through life,
‘Tis the set of the soul,
That determines the goal,
And not the calm or the strife.
A similar message rocks and rolls: “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try some time, you just might find, you get what you need.” –The Rolling Stones
Beyond the notions mentioned above, certainly many others exist that depict a similar concept, the same perspective. “Sail the Wind you Have, Not the Wind you Want,” original in the manner in which it was learned, remains a powerful approach while the four of us Rigneys build our new lives in California.
Bryce Rigney enjoying an open ocean sunset aboard sv Kandu.
Returning from our instructive two-day stint as volunteer line-handlers, we quickly went into preparation, not only for the canal transit, but also for our 4-day crossing to Costa Rica and beyond. Eric and Bryce rearranged exterior gear (extra anchors and outboard motor) to clear Kandu’s topside and provide easier access. They also obtained enough diesel to last through the Canal, into northern Costa Rica, and eventually southern Mexico.
Food preparation we learned was a very important aspect of the transit as it’s a requirement that we furnish quality hot meals to the two advisors and our professional line handlers (2 extra young hungry men), including sealed water-bottles (water from boat tanks could harbor unintended bacteria) plus the ‘quality’ meals needed to include meat, i.e.: breakfasts with eggs and sausage. Because I was also acting as a line handler (Remember: we were required to have 4 handlers plus the captain), I heavily provisioned and pre-cooked several dishes (as Captain Bill Broyle had done) before disembarking from Shelter Bay Marina.
Kandu docked in Shelter Bay Marina, Panama
Eric already ready to take a break!
Bryce Rigney waiting for Immigration officer.
Eric Rigney thrilled with his Mulas from Panama’s San Bls
Leslie Rigney with San Blas Island Kuna women
Our rented lines and fenders arrived the day before our departure, giving us plenty of time to set them up. In fact, our passage through the locks would be rather prosaic having already motored through the locks on the same make of boat – Tayana V42’. And unlike our last experience, little wind was predicted to shove us around.
Transit day 1, fully prepared to leave the marina and start our adventure, at noon we welcomed aboard our two hired line handlers. Upon our request, we were thrilled to have Santiago Zorrilla join us. As instructed by our transit agent, we casted off our dock lines around 1:00 pm, left the marina, anchored in the bay off the yellow buoy, and notified the Port Authority of our readiness. They responded with our advisor’s expected arrival time.
Kandu greeting our first advisors on the Caribbean side of the Panama Canal.
Two hours later we received not one, but two, advisors: a trainer and his trainee. “Two for the price of one,” the senior advisor proclaimed with a kindly grin. Once aboard and introduced, we awaited permission to proceed. The advisors combed over their documentation, a list of all the ships transiting the canal that day. Over their walkie-talkie radios, they were told which commercial ship would be our ‘lock-buddy’ and at what time we needed to be at the first lock.
Captain Eric Rigney helms ready!
The advisors kindly asked us to weigh anchor and head quickly to the bridge, several miles away. Having done all this before, but with less wind interference and with two experienced professional line-handlers, a relaxed mood pervaded onboard. We knew the next challenge would be just past the bridge where we’d perform the ‘dance of the raft.’
It wasn’t until our anchors were up and we were in motion did we see who our rafting buddy-boats would be: two French catamarans. Would we be the center boat flanked by cats, or would we be on the end? Only time would tell. As we passed the bridge, approaching the first of three locks, with no pesky winds pushing us in strange directions, we were calmly instructed to raft up with the larger cat in the middle. First the little blue cat rafted to the port side of the large white cat. Their line-handlers were not as skilled as ours, and this took a bit of time. The fact that the little blue cat had tires instead of fenders indicated they were on a budget. But we had time. Being large and sturdy, the middle catamaran easily powered and steered the two, holding position as we gently came up to her starboard side and rafted.
Kandu rafted and ready for the Gatun Locks.
Once all were secured into a single raft, I heard the familiar voice of the same advisor that had so adeptly guided our raft with Captain Bill. Our circumstances couldn’t have been more superb. As he instructed the three captains, but mostly the center cat captain, the raft proceeded directly into the locks behind our commercial ‘lock-buddy’ ship. Messenger lines were cast, caught, and tied to our rented dock line bowlines without ado.
Lock line handler running the messenger line down the lock.
The canal workers walked along the lock chamber at our forward pace, holding the other end of the messenger lines. On the advisor’s signal, the lock workers pulled their messenger lines up and with them, our extra-long dock lines as our line-handlers eased them out. Once the bowline of the dock line was draped over the bollard, our line-handlers, one forward and one aft, quickly took in the slack and secured their respective lines. Our line handlers, Santiago and Juan, were in full control, so Bryce and I were able to take videos and pictures to capture the moment.
Lock line handler having secured our bowline around the canal bollard.Santiago Zorrilla securing Kandu’s bow.Bryce Rigney transiting the Panama Canal on sv Kandu.
As the water level in the chamber raised, Santiago and Juan compensated by tightening the loosing dock lines, keeping the raft in the middle of the lock. Captain Eric and our advisors hardly had anything to do!
Leslie Rigney with the Caribbean closing off behind her
Panama Canal Gatun Lock Steel Doors closing behind us.
This sequence repeated itself two more times before we exited the third and final of the Gatun locks.
Kandu and crew waiting fo their lock-buddy commercial ship in Pedro Miguel Lock.
Fortunately this time, we had plenty of daylight left to enjoy a bit of Lake Gatun as we motored to the over-night mooring buoy. Surrounded by lush greenery, Lake Gatun is a peaceful sanctuary for water-birds, howler monkeys and alligators (no swimming). Surprisingly, the passing ships make very little noise.
Boats wishing to transit the canal are required to maintain a minimum speed of 5 knots (6 mph). If not, the owner must make other arrangements to transport his/her yacht from one ocean to the other, usually by truck. But even at 6kts, we’re not able to transit the canal in one day. We’re required to moor to one of two mooring buoys specifically designed to hold two sailboats each. Two miles west of the last lock, the mooring buoys are large, made of PVC plastic, and very sturdy. Two to three people can jump onto one without concern of tipping. And the plastic surface makes it possible to tie up without scratching your boat. With fenders positioned amid ship to keep us off the buoy, the professional line-handlers run one rented line from the bow, through the mooring buoy’s extra-large shackle, and back to the center of the boat. A second line is run from the stern through the same shackle on the mooring buoy, and again to the boat’s center. If another boat is to share the mooring, a common occurrence, the line-handlers tie both bows and sterns together, one line each, so that bow and stern of both boats remain equidistant from each other through the night.
Bryce Rigney, Juan and Santiago securing Kandu to Gatun Lakes large overnight buoy.Kandu moored in Gatun Lake, Panama.
The meals that I prepared in advance turned out perfectly and aplenty especially considering that we had two unforeseen ‘trainee’ advisors to feed. Yes, even on our second day transit, we had the good fortune to have another trainer-trainee set. I served chicken and vegetable curry with rice plus salad for dinner the first night, sausage and egg breakfast with pre-fried onion potatoes for the second day’s breakfast, grilled ham and cheese sandwiches with coleslaw for lunch, and spaghetti with a heavy meat and tomato sauce for the second night’s dinner, all accompanied with tons of salty snacks, cookies, candy bars and even soft drinks. Eric, Bryce and I felt spoiled ourselves with all the naughty eatin’!
The second day offered a little different scenario. Whereas the advisors of the previous day seem to be in sync and in accord, this day would prove otherwise. Unbeknownst to us, the day-two advisor now on the little blue cat had previously been suspended for issues related to his poor advisory skills. This was his first day back after a year. Once each boat had its respective advisor(s) on board, we untied from the mooring buoys and headed off, with great haste, to the first lock more than 25 nautical miles away. Independently but in casual line up, each boat made its way to the Pacific side of Lake Gatun. As we approached another large spanning bridge ahead of the next set of locks, it signaled again the staging area for rafting-up, but unlike last time, the little blue cat didn’t wait for the large white cat, and proceeded directly to the entrance of the first lock, Pedro Miguel. This was particularly odd behavior considering we were nearly 30 minutes ahead of schedule. Our ‘lock-buddy’ ship saw the little blue cat and proceeded to approach the lock, narrowing our gap.
The white cat and we sped up, but the inexperience of the line-handlers on both cats and the naughty advisor acting on his own, nearly crushed the blue cat’s stern into the wall, which delayed their ability to receive us. As we all approached too closely the steel barrier of the lock’s entrance, we were asked by the white cat’s line-handlers to turn around, go out, and come back when they were ready for us. Our advisor spoke via radio to the pilot on our commercial ‘lock-buddy’ ship to ask his/her intentions. The ship pilot said they’d have the tugs push the ship up against the wall to allow us all to exit, re-group, raft, and re-enter. Our advisor thanked the pilot and asked the other advisors to come out into wider waters. At the same time, our advisor asked Eric to motor full throttle away from the lock, past the ship before the thrust of the tugs pushed us into the wall. The advisor on the little blue cat then hailed our ‘lock-buddy’ ship’s pilot and said they were ready to go without us.
Our advisor was frustrated. Considering the erratic behavior of the rogue advisor, our advisor suggested we’d be safer waiting and taking two more hours to transit than if we were to raft with an unpredictable advisor. Eric and I agreed, and besides, the commercial ship’s pilot, having accepted the blue cat advisor’s explanation, had already proceeded to enter the lock, closing us off. Kandu would go through the locks without another sailboat rafted to its side. All four dock lines would now have to be monitored, not just relying on our pros. But having already gone through the process so many times, I was confident in my line-handling abilities and excited by the additional responsibility.
Waiting a couple of hours being tied to the wall, we took the opportunity to video chat with a high school French class at Trent’s school in Southern California. Bryce being of their age and fluent in French, we just handed the phone to him. Not every day does a classroom get to speak with a sailboat in the midst of transiting the Panama Canal, right? Anyway, chat time over, our new ‘lock-buddy’ ship approached and the lock handlers appeared with their messenger lines. It was game day for the crew of Kandu. Bryce caught my messenger line and handed it over to me. I tied my bowline to the messenger line like a professional (even more quickly than the professionals, I think – lol!) and then stayed alert as the lock handlers walked our four lines down the chamber in step with Kandu. When signaled by our advisor’s whistle, I sent our aft starboard polypropylene dock line back to the lock handler which he secured to a giant bollard, then I quickly pulled-in the loose line and cleated it down. Yippee, I did it! And furthermore, I repeated my efforts to great effect 2 more times!
Kandu with Bryce Rigney and Santiago Zorrilla secured in Pedro Miguel Lock.Juan handling the aft port dock line as our enormous lock-buddy ship approached.Kandu’s two Canal advisors recounting Panama Canal stories to Leslie Rigney.
Eric actually had a bit of excitement steering us straight in the last lock, which tends to be the hardest. The last lock was squirrely with current not because of wind but because our ‘lock-buddy’ ship, while short, was enormous top to bottom, and side to side. So wide, only two feet of water on either of her sides separated it from the lock’s 100-year-old concrete walls. She encumbered the entire lock in depth and width, so that when from behind us she moved forward like a hydraulic plunger, the water in the lock pushed forcefully forward spiriting us erratically and rapidly toward the closed lock doors straight ahead. Eric steered Kandu in full reverse adjusting for the current, and still we came a little too close. Just 20 feet before the doors, us line handlers halted our forward progress with masterful handling of the lines!!! Whoop, whoop!
Although we had hoped to complete our transit by 4 p.m. that day, the situation with the rogue advisor caused a delay that didn’t have us leaving the last lock until twilight, just as it had been with Captain Bill. Another long day for all of us. Leaving the lock, I served spaghetti dinner to the handlers and the advisors. Now in the Pacific again after having been away for 2 years, we motored near to the Balboa Yacht Club, about 3.5 nm, the rendez-vous spot to drop off our line-handlers and the rented equipment. Once in pick-up position, it was another 45 minutes before our advisors were also collected. Exhausted and hungry, Eric, Bryce and I, happily alone again on Kandu, proceeded toward the Balboa Yacht Club waters to find a mooring buoy for the next two nights.
That evening, under a full moon, securely moored in the dark water of the Balboa Yacht Club…after we ate our spaghetti with meat sauce and I had my celebratory glass of wine, I went outside for a quiet moment to soak it all in…to reflect on all that we had accomplished since Gibraltar. Somehow, I had the distinct feeling that I had been there before. Well, in fact, I had been there on s/v Taopaowith Captain Bill. Our passage through the canal went so smoothly comparatively, that it felt anti-climactic. I was actually embarrassed with myself for feeling let down. Eric, Bryce and I had talked about and planned our transit through the Panama Canal ad nauseum for five months since arriving in Gibraltar. And WE FINALLY DID IT! We transited the Panama Canal bringing us back into the Pacific Ocean, but now it was done. Mission Accomplished. Fait accompli. Quest over. I felt so weird inside, as if I was missing something. As if I had been engaged in an opera as the lead where the rehearsals and performances were finished and my ‘opera’ family built over three months had split-up. However, fortunately for me, my family in this production was still intact; Eric, Bryce, myself and Kanduwere all still together…for a little bit longer.
Kandu moored at Balboa Yacht Club, Panama, looking back at the Bridge of the Americas..On shore looking across the Balboa Yacht Club wharf as a container ship passes by.
Two days later, we set sail for northern Costa Rica.
By Leslie Dennis-Rigney with additions from Eric Rigney
Four days before our own crossing, completely wide-eyed and excited for our educational trial-by-fire transit through the canals, Eric, Bryce and myself jumped aboard s/v Taopao around 12:30 in the afternoon for a two-day, one-night voyage through the Gatun and Pedro Miguel/Miraflores locks of the Panama Canal. Captain Bill Broyles was calm.
Captain Bill Broyles of s/v Taopao, Tayana V42′
He motored Taopao out of Shelter Bay Marina to anchor behind a large yellow buoy to await the advisor’s arrival along with the two other boats who would be traveling through the canal with us. Eventually, just before entering the two sets of three locks, we’d all raft tightly together, advancing and stopping as one unit inside the locks.
In addition to our family of three volunteer line-handlers, Captain Bill hired a professional line handler to complete the required quartet. Santiago was a master at handling the lines having done it 63 prior times. With a calm demeanor and twinkle in his eye, he helped the three of us fasten the rented fenders into the best positions and arrange in unencumbered 4-foot long coils, the four hefty 150-foot, 7/8” rented blue polypropylene dock lines which he purposefully left unattached, stoppered by a 4-foot long bowline at one end. My eyebrows raised in surprise seeing such a large loop not imagining its use. I tried to tie-off the loose ends of the coils to the boat, but Santiago gently stopped me (our communication was hampered by the fact that he spoke a little English and I speak even less Spanish) and signaled to leave it unfastened; that it would be okay. I shrugged and followed his lead.
Two hours after hailing the authorities that Taopao was in requisite anchored position outside Shelter Bay, waiting as the wind increased in force – that wind having already dislodged the anchor of one of our buddy-boats from the seafloor, the advisors finally boarded the three pre-arranged sailboats. Our agent immediately directed Captain Bill to weigh anchor and motor toward the Gatun locks following our commercial ‘lock-buddy’ ship, aided rapidly forward by 25-knot tailwinds. As we passed beneath the massively tall bridge under construction, the advisor alerted us to prepare for rafting.
We watched as the fiberglass cutter from Australia rafted its starboard side up along the port side of the steel ketch from Iceland, the longest of the three monohulls. Once secure, we gently pulled our port side to the starboard side of the steel ketch, without much ado even with the heavy downwind impetus. I attribute this success to the veteran line handlers and advisors who were alert and skillful. Now rafted tightly together, the lead advisor in the middle boat communicated orders to all three captains: “More thrust to starboard, reverse hard, neutral!” etc. Between the wind, current, and prop surge from the forward ship and two large tugs with whom we’d share the next three locks, it was quite the rodeo keeping the three squirrely mono-hulls moving carefully forward as one raft. Yet, steadily, we made our way behind our very large lock-buddy ship, buffered by the two large tugs. As our raft moved into the lock, four dock handlers holding coils of long brown jute-like messenger lines with a heavy ball called a ‘monkey’s fist’ attached to the end, got in position, signaling their readiness for us line handlers to catch and attach.
Center boat (steel) of our three-boat raft inside Gatun Lock with tug and ‘lock-buddy’ ship in front.
As the starboard most vessel, we would have to catch the lock lines and eventually secure the starboard side of the raft. Santiago and I were in the starboard aft position, Eric and Bryce starboard forward. The lock line handlers use a special technique for throwing their messenger lines. You can see the large targets and overhead rails they use for practice. Frustratingly, our forward lock handler had to throw his messenger line three times before the monkey fist arrived close enough for Bryce and Eric to catch (hmm – that dock handler didn’t play enough baseball when he was young!). Knowing that the aft attachments are the most important in stopping the forward motion of the raft against the strong aft winds, Captain Bill and I were relieved Santiago had secured it as the raft approached closer and closer to the tugboats. However, a loose bow could spell trouble for our port side sailboat buddy. Catching the third attempt, Eric quickly tied the messenger line with a bowline to the head of the heavy-duty dock line as Bryce rapidly fed it out. In short order, the lock handlers on the wall hooked the large blue polypropylene loops around gigantic bollards high above us. Eric and Bryce, Santiago and I, wasting no time, pulled-up the slack and secured our lines thus stabilizing the starboard side of the raft. Whew! That first time was mentally taxing since the three of us, Eric, Bryce and myself didn’t know what to expect. Even though Bill had volunteered a few days before, this was his first time as captain . . . never stress-free.
Panama Canal Gatun Lock Steel Doors closing behind us.
Shortly after, the massive hollow steel doors closed behind us. The surrounding lock waters began to rise requiring constant adjustment tightening the lines until the lock chamber was full and our raft reached its level. This exercise repeated two more times until we exited the last of the three elevating locks entering into Gatun Lake and unhooked from the other two boats. Already twilight, we zoomed over to the large plastic mooring, where we’d spend the night. It was fully dark by the time our three boats were settled down on moorings in Lake Gatun, one of the largest man-made bodies of water. The advisors on all three boats were soon after collected by a pilot boat. I heated up the pre-cooked dinner, served the meal and performed the galley clean-up. Exhausted, we all headed straight to bed in order to be perky for the next day’s adventures scheduled some time after 7 a.m. We would be required to motor full speed for 3 hours through Lake Gatun to the Pedro Miguel/Miraflores locks, re-raft with the other two monohulls, and instead of being brought up into the lake, we would be lowered into the Pacific. The Miraflores locks were reported by other sailors as the most difficult due to a strong surge and a venturi wind effect whistling through the canals.
The next day, following our crew’s sunrise breakfast, I prepared the advisor’s requisite hot egg breakfast for our second-day advisor, a different person from the day before. After jumping from the bow of the pilot boat which had taxied him to us and some quick introductions, we were off and motoring at a decent clip of 6 knots. In the lock chambers, instead of being in front of our raft as was the case coming up into the lake, our ‘lock-buddy’ ship would enter behind us. When getting ready to raft this time, instead of the three of us tying up in the channel as we’d done before, it was decided by the advisors that the most port boat of our raft would attach first to the wall just outside the lock, then the steel boat to him, and then us to the steel boat. This put the port boat in an unfavorable position, with a great possibility of being pushed into the cement wall. The heavy winds at our back turned this into an erratic operation. The middle steel boat approached its port neighbor too fast and the bows almost touched before the aft rafting lines were exchanged and secured. It was nerve-wracking to witness. Our turn also brought us in hot, even though Captain Bill was motoring in reverse. We came together with the sterns almost hitting. I quickly positioned myself to push us off the steel boat and fortunately two other line handlers were alert and stepped in – disaster was averted. As the excitement was occurring, I heard a few expletives shrieked behind me by the mentally stretched Captain Bill. Whew! That was close! Poor Captain Bill was drenched in perspiration!
With our raft secured and ‘lock-buddy’ ship approaching, the port boat cast off its wall lines. After much shouting and orders given, we entered the empty lock: Pedro Miguel. Once lowered to the next lock level, we exited without incident. The lead advisor skillfully guided our raft a few short miles to the Miraflores locks, the final two. Without another hitch, all three boats survived the 30-hour transit experience unscathed. Whoopee! It was a success.
Captain Bill Broyles thrilled to exit the last Miraflores lock just before de-rafting.
Our volunteering adventure was not over. While we packed our day-bags and made sure not to leave anything behind, Bryce transferred our camera’s photo images to Captain Bill’s computer, a great souvenir for the gentle captain. Passing under the Bridge of the Americas in the dark, Eric, Bryce, and I along with Santiago, the 3 other line handlers from one of our partner boats, including all the rented dock lines and fenders from the two boats, were dispatched away by Balboa Yacht Club’s hired water taxi. The advisor remained on board, waiting for the pilot boat to fetch him. Once on the smaller wooden pedestrian dock and overpass, I soon realized I grabbed a bit too much gear along with my own backpack, not realizing how far I’d be carrying the load. Fortunately, most of my burdens were relieved by the other line handlers and I made it across the wharf and up to the top of the street without stumbling in the dim light. Once the rented gear was discharged behind a pick-up truck, Santiago directed us how to make our way back to Shelter Bay Marina by bus and taxi as per agreed with Captain Bill.
Getting home from the Balboa Yacht Club, having never done it before, was its own two-hour adventure. We eventually hailed a wonderful taxi to take us to the bus terminal. After a bit of a broken Spanish scramble in the terminal, we made our way to a local bus, leaving immediately for Colon. The driver motioned us aboard. With no empty seats, we exited the bus confused. However, while signaling us to re-enter, the driver handed us two cloth-covered buckets to serve as stools between the two rows of seats. Bryce sat on the floor. With recorded Colombian salsa playing, we were off and running. An hour or so later, the bus dropped us three off at a stop where we could catch another taxi to Shelter Bay. We had been warned of the dangers of Colon, especially at night, especially for tourists, so we eagerly awaited the chance to hail a taxi. An older local woman, positioned herself ahead of us. Ten long minutes later, she hailed the first empty cab to pass by. She and the driver spoke, exchanging looks our way. She asked in English our destination and translated to the driver. She motioned us over to take this taxi, she’d catch the next one. We insisted she take it, as I guess she saw “target” written all over our faces. What a kind thing to do. After negotiating the price, we entered the almost working taxi, and were off…never mind that little of the car functioned. What was important was that the driver knew how to keep it running the 45 challenging minutes over windy, pot-holed, unlit, dirt roads. Feeling sorry for him, Eric paid him more than was agreed. We returned to Kandu tired but mentally prepared for our own future challenges.
Panama, Panama City, the Bridge of the Americas (Puente de las Americas) over the Panama Canal access channel on the Pacific Ocean side, the Miraflores Locks in the background (aerial view)
By Leslie Dennis-Rigney with additions from Eric Rigney
Arriving in Gibraltar marked the beginning of the back half of our circumnavigation. From Gibraltar on, in conversation with other cruisers, the first question was: “Are you planning on cruising the Caribbean or passing through the Panama Canal?” North or West? Our answer: West with the winds – we were to be carried along those critical westbound trade winds, funneling us across the Atlantic, pushing us over South America’s Northern coastline and brought furiously into battle with Colombia’s Caribbean winter storm-force winds. With a California-bound ETA of May 2019, wanting to arrive prior to the commencement of the Mexican hurricane season (May-Nov), the next prodigious hurtles on the map included crossing the Atlantic, getting past the Colombian coastline, and navigating through the Panama Canal.
OnTheWorldMap.com
Departing from Gibraltar on Sept 15th, we made the customary pre-Atlantic crossing landfalls: Morocco, and the Canary and Cape Verde Islands. We were on time leaving Gibraltar, but were held up in Morocco, waiting for engine parts and installing them. We left on Halloween. Our visit in the Canary Islands went without hitch, but in Cape Verde we were held up an additional week. Our US mail just missed the inter-island weekly flight. While in our marina slip, we celebrated Thanksgiving with Moroccan tagine and pumpkin pie. Once the mail was in our anxious hands, December 9thwe departed Mindelo, Cape Verde; the beginning of our third, and last, ocean crossing.
Eric Rigney holding our snail mail which finally arrived in Cape Verde!
The Atlantic crossing went very well. Sixteen days later, two days ahead of schedule, we arrived in French Guiana, traveling up the muddy river half a day before grabbing a mooring buoy in the currents of St. Laurent du Maroni. Although already behind schedule, we took time to visit a few sites most significantly the infamous prison headquarters or Transportation center where Papillon passed through.
Saint Laurent du Maroni’s famous Transportation Prison
Inside the French Prison
Sleeping quarters with Bryce Rigney trying them out. Yuck!
Papillon’s signature in Saint Laurent du Maroni’s Transportation Prison
However, we couldn’t dally too long in any one place. Our Caribbean cruising was minimal, remaining in the southern waters lightly exploring: Suriname, Tobago, Grenada, Bonaire, Curacao, and Colombia. Throughout our 1-2 week stays, as sailors exchanged itineraries which sailors often do, our pending Panama Canal transit invariably came up, and along with it their horror stories of other sailboats that had gone before; how boats nearly smashed against the cement walls, into other boats and/or the lock’s massive, 100-year-old steel doors.
After Curacao, the next beast facing us was the Colombian coastline, not pirates, but . . . wind. Eric and I were concerned about the notorious winds of December-March aka Christmas winds that blow consistently 25-40 knots, often accompanied by a short, steep swell, tuned to swamp boats. An expert Caribbean cruiser and long-time charter captain, Glen Hurd of s/v Sundance who we met while cruising in Indonesia, spoke of them as being the worst conditions he had ever experienced in all his cruising days. To become better educated, I contacted my UCLA college friend Chris Landsea who now is chief of NOA’s marine branch (Tropical Analysis and Forecasting over the Tropical Atlantic, Caribbean Sea, Gulf of Mexico, and Tropical East Pacific). As long as I have known him, his interest circled around weather, especially hurricanes. He was the perfect manto calm our anxiety. Chris suggested that we access NOA weather forecasts at the below following websites, thus augmenting the information we generally gather from mobile weather aps: Windy, Predict Wind, and AYE tides.
Wind images in the Caribbean and specifically over Colombia
Before planning to leave any anchorage or port, Eric consults the weather. Our navigation plans are always centered around the weather. We have learned that a forecast is generally fairly accurate up to 3 or 4 days. After that, conditions can easily vary from predictions, that’s why it’s so important to travel during known periods of a region’s good weather. For example, when getting ready to travel into the Mediterranean, we had to forego visiting Thailand and Sri Lanka to insure we would arrive within the Gulf of Aden and the Red Sea’s safe seasonal weather window; February through mid-March.
It was definitely windy sailing across the top of Colombia and even when tied up in the marinas. We sailed into Colombia from Curacao with only our staysail flying. In Santa Marta Marina, boats share space between two docks, each tying one side of their boat to a pontoon. Kandu was docked on the leeward pontoon and a smaller, lighter boat occupied the windward pontoon. The marina’s pontoons are short and not supported by pilons, so they move around a lot. Two days later, in 35-40 knot gusting winds and marked swell, 20-ton Kandupopped one of her fenders and was going to get damaged rubbing up hard against and/or break the pontoon. Which, in fact, another boat did break a pontoon that night. We deployed all our fenders, including Big Bertha, our huge red one, and removed much of Kandu’s windage (canopy, tying our dinghy flatter, lifting horizontally the solar panels).
Kandu in Santa Marta Marina, Colombia, proudly displaying Big Bertha – our red fender!
Still, the wind continued to force Kandu firmly against the dock. We had little ability to tie and pull her windward side off the dock. With a bit of ingenuity, Eric unbolted an unused dock cleat from another slip and moved it onto the main dock, and then attached at a 45-degree angle another spring line from the center of the boat. Finally, with our combined strategies in effect, we managed to lessen the amount of strain Kandu placed against the pontoon and her hull side. With stories of Colombia’s Caribbean winter winds firmly validated, we again experienced their force once more tied to a dock, this time in Barranquilla’s Puerto Valero Marina. Attached to the leeward side of the leeward end-tie, the wind now blew Kandu away from the dock, so much so, our bow chock sheared. That same morning, with storm-force winds forecast over the next 10 days without break, we decided to take it on and head toward our next ‘bear in the woods.’ Adios Christmas Winds, hola Canal! Although initially hesitant to leave the marina, once under way, Kandu handled well the 25-30 knot winds with its following swell. Remember, Kandu has a canoe stern, so steep seas wrap unfettered around her backside, unlike flat, open, and sugar-scoop sterns which can get pushed around, or at times, flooded.
The Atlantic crossing and the Colombian Christmas winds behind us, transiting the Panama Canal was now forefront on our minds. Most landing decisions, once made, require some form of preparation and research into requirements and procedures. Coming to transit the canal, first on the list was reserving a slip in the closest and safest Caribbean-side marina, Shelter Bay, and then handling the usual processing through customs and immigration.
Chart plotter image of Kandu on the Caribbean side of the the Panama Canal with AIS boat signatures.
Complications to transit the canal included: selecting and contacting a canal agent, learning how to work with canal advisors who would guide us through the canal passage, obtaining line handlers (volunteer vs. professional), and understanding the various transit charges and costs.
Once we docked in Shelter Bay Marina, Eric met with our agent and obtained our crossing date. To remove some of the mystery, we decided we’d volunteer as line handlers aboard another sailboat. Fortuitously, we found a single-hander Bill Broyles with a boat model similar to ours, a Tayana V42, aft cockpit, named SV Taopao. Even before volunteering as line-handlers, we thought it would be helpful to see the locks up close and learn something about the history and engineering behind this world marvel. So, we took the hour and half bus ride into Panama City and paid a visit to the Miraflores Locks Visitor Center, and also happened to see the adjacent IMAX movie theater Panama story that played a specially created and beautifully executed IMAX movie chronicling its history.
Panama Canal Gatun Lock gates from Caribbean side.
Miraflores Visitor Center as seen from the Panama Canal
Leslie Rigney with the world in her hands!
Panama Canal toll rates
Eric Rigney at the Panama Canal pilot controls!
View of Miraflores Locks from the Visitor Center
Panama Canal Locamotive mule.
The visitor center is an excellent cutting-edge museum of the Panama Canal’s records starting from the late 1800’s. The exhibit also included material about the newest adjacent locks constructed between 2006 and 2017 built to accommodate the present-day ever larger container ships. I loved how the museum walked me through challenges and frustrations of the early French trials spearheaded by the charismatic diplomat Ferdinand de Lesseps who had led the successful building of the Suez Canal. Shockingly, upwards of 21,000 workers died during those first tumultuous years mostly from yellow fever and malaria. Feverishly scientists worked on figuring out the cause of the deaths. At one point, doctors thought the diseases were spread by ants. Tuna cans were then placed under each bedpost filled with water, which deterred the ants but also provided mosquitos the perfect place to breed…right in the hospitals.
The French government, almost bankrupted in 1889 due to the heavy outlays incurred financing the construction of the canal, was defeated by the challenge and the construction company sold its contract to the American Federal Government; the US financial arrangement was spearheaded by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1903. At the time, Panama was part of Colombia. Colombian leaders refused to support the new arrangement. Americans in their fashion, negotiated with some Panamanian revolutionaries to declare independence from Colombia promising to support them with a navy warship. Colombia sent their own troops, but with the Americans already in position backing the revolutionaries and other smartly played moves by the revolutionaries, Panamanian independence was affirmed with minimal casualties on November 3, 1903.
President Theodore Roosevelt gettin’ it done!
The Americans, with a West Indies labor force, started work on site in 1904. The canal was completed with little fanfare on August 15th, 1914, just after World War II commenced. It cost the United States a total of US$352 million and an additional 5,600 deaths to build today’s 24-hour a day operating canal. Quite the dramatic beginning to mark one of today’s ‘Wonders of the World,’ still considered one of the most extraordinary feats of engineering of all time!
Gatun Locks of Panama Canal from Caribbean into Gatun Lake.
By Leslie Dennis-Rigney with additions from Eric Rigney
Wednesday was an amazing day touring the only French concentration camp: Struthof in the town of Natzweiler. It was originally a small ski resort, very far from most towns, hidden away from the local Alsatian population. We were totally fascinated by the adjacent museum’s informative displays, photographs of both World Wars including an explanatory video of how the destruction of WWI and ensuing political environment evolved to create the political environment which hatched WWII.
Eric Rigney in front of Struthof Camp Entrance
Nazi Camp Category Badges
Struthof Concentration Camp Gallows
Struthof crematorium incinerator
Struthof human Experimentation table
Struthof Commandant’s quarters with pool during WWII
Struthof Commandant’s quarters with pool today
Struthof quarters used to euthanize human prisoners
Euthanizing Peephole
Outside the museum are the concentration camp’s original barbed wire fences along with the watchtowers. There were three barracks open to the public…they were rebuilt to be like the original ones….this was the very first concentration camp discovered by the Allies…left intact due to a hasty German departure. Unfortunately, most of the camp barracks were burned down more recently by neo-Nazis to hide the truth. A small oven to burn human bodies was intact. Just outside the camp was the commandant’s home appropriated from a local even equipped with a pool. A little drive away, was a building used as one of the first gas chambers constructed to test the efficacity of different air poisons.
This entire area was hidden in wooded foothills. Germans had discovered a small pink granite mine there and determined to turn it into a quarry to furnish materials for the new Regime’s huge buildings in the Alsatian region which they had annexed into a German state during WWII. This concentration camp held strictly political prisoners from all over Europe.
That evening we were invited to Eric’s Aunt’s former sister in-law’s Elisabeth and Andre Claus’ home for a special family reunion hosted in her backyard in the nearby town of Niedershaeffolsheim (now that’s a mouthful!).
Elisabeth & Andre Engel-Claus
Her husband, Andre is so particular with his garden that the grounds seem as clean as a kitchen floor. They invited us to a traditional Alsatian Sauerkraut dinner – one of the regionally renowned dishes complete with various exquisite mouth-watering sausages, smoked pork, lardon, potatoes, sauerkraut of course, and other side dishes all served with traditional Alsatian wines. The dinner started off with champagne. Normally this dish is not served in the summer as it is heavy. Meant mostly for winter, but an exception was made for our visit per Eric’s request. The sauerkraut is Andre’s specialty following a very precise family recipe. Dessert was a scrumptious chocolate cake served with Eau de vie. Joined at our outdoor table were Elizabeth’s and George’s children, their spouses and grandchildren plus Aunt Annie’s brother George who came from Strasbourg for the occasion of our visit. Eric and Leslie gave them gifts from Venice of special Venetian glass which they loved.
Strasbourg was on our menu for Thurs, July 19th. We arrived around 10 am, meeting up again with our tour guide extraordinaire: Miriam, hubby (and baby). The first place they led us was to the Ponts-Couverts. There were several picturesque covered bridges over the Ill River (splitting into 5 branches) which controlled the level of water through the canals via Vauban’s Dam, built during the reign of King Louis XIV. These bridges are presently protected by three remaining out of 5 massive square watch towers complete with archer apertures on both sides. The towers and bridges are the last traces of a wall that surrounded the city in the Middle Ages. When the arches of the bridges were closed, the river water was diverted to flood the land South of the town, causing enemy armies to flounder in mire. During the French Revolution, the towers were converted into prison cells.In the Petite France quarter, we were delighted with the fabulous huge half-timber houses…it is the wealthy section of town. Our visit awarded us exquisite visions of quaint beauty never seen before. Here we saw how a quaint turntable bridge, Pont du Faison, worked over one of the canals allowing pedestrians and tour boats to pass alternately. Everywhere we were in awe of overwhelming charm. Miriam and her husband, both school teachers, knew well their city’s history, so it was a delight to spend the day with them.
Walking further we arrived at the famous Strasbourg Notre-Dame Cathedral, towering majestically over the local streets. At that point Miriam’s sister Rachel completed our group whom Eric and Leslie had spent time with in Ventura.
Strasbourg Notre-Dame Cathedral
We joined the inside tour of the Cathedral in order to view the working Mechanical Clock, an engineering masterpiece of old dating from the 16thcentury Renaissance with completed restorations in 1842. “Its mechanism is unique in the world and was constructed as an application of a scientific theory. Every day at 12:30 pm its automata come to life in the fascinating ‘Apostle’s Parade.’” It features the rotation of the 12 apostles above the face, with cherubs, death images, bonging and a rooster who pops out to cock-a-doodle-doo! This clock accurately forecasts the date of Easter, sunsets, eclipses, etc. Truly amazing work of art and engineering. An astounding marvel in an age before computers. If it were built today with computers, it would still be considered amazing.
Strasbourg Notre-Dame Cathedral Mechanical Clock
After the Cathedral, we walked over to Gutenberg Square. On the way, we passed by Saint Thomas Church, the first Lutheran reformation church, once Catholic but converted by Martin Bucer, who’s statue we saw located in the Gutenberg Square. Martin Bucer’s printing workshop is still located outside the city where presumably he printed bibles in the vernacular.
Strasbourg street signSaint Thomas ChurchMartin Bucer in Gutenberg Square
We met Anne-Marie and Francois Hubert (Nicolas and baby) for lunch. Five years prior, we hosted them at our home in Oakland and we were so looking forward to meeting up with them again. Anne-Marie stayed on to walk with us after the rest of the family left – the baby needed his nap! We later took her home and toured their lovely modern home and garden.
Anne-Marie Hubert and Rosie Dennis
Upon returning back north to Surbourg, we had a light farewell dinner of sausages with the Keizers under the lovely willow tree served with hot pretzels, mustard and more delicious wine! How delightful to be secure with friends under their beautiful weeping tree: cool, refreshing, and comforting after a very full day. Because this was the last time we would be seeing the Keizer family, I gave Brigitte Keizer my bedazzled in rhinestones black hat which she had coveted.
Chez Keizer under the willow tree
On Friday, everyone but me went to see Sandra and Denny’s new house (children of Elizabeth & George (Annie’s brother).
Visit with Sandra and Dany Engel with Papa George Engel and daughter Elena’s new home featured behind
Later met at 7 Fountains Farm Restaurant where we met up with Corinne and Adrian Ruffy, dear niece of Annie whose son Thibault spent quality time with Bryce sailing sabots in Ventura. We enjoyed a tour of their home.
With Corinne and Adrien Ruffy
Corinne offered coffee and busily prepared a delicious mousse with her incredible kitchen machine Thermomix TM 5 (Vorwerk) that both cooks and ices. It’s not sold in the US yet…very expensive…but oh so handy. I want one! The day included a visit to Fleckenstein Castle ruins surrounded by beautiful forest area. They demonstrated the ancient art of making charcoal…not an easy task. That evening, Brigitte joined us at a local restaurant specializing in the boys’ favorite Alsatian dish: tart flambée. Leslie entertained everyone singing her favorite party aria: Quando m’en vo by Puccini. The locals were pleasantly surprised.
Our last day in Alsace, the kids were invited for breakfast with Elisabeth and George’s son Michael, wife and teenage daughter at their home. A very old home, they had painstakingly restored it maintaining an authentic half-timber house exterior, while the interior was completely modern. Neat!
Michael, Danielle and Luna Engel’s home
The afternoon was made incredibly special by Brigette’s next door neighbors, Lili and Francois Werner. This couple have made a museum out of their property…he has collected every known tool and organized them so particularly that it was impossible to not be in awe of his displays. We smiled broadly as we toured through their home decorated with outlandish French furnishings and mysteries. Truly something to be glad that I don’t have to clean….Our “aperitif” meal consisted of about 10 different courses of small bites…yummie, fun, very special experience offered by two completely charming and loving people. I’ll never forget the happiness they shared just to serve us and show us their beloved collections and intriguing decorations. Francois has used his mastery of working with wrought iron to make large pieces as ornaments for his beautiful garden floral displays. They also have a pristine old red car (Peugeot 201,1934) Often they dress in era clothing to drive in special occasions. They surely have all the appropriate, snappy outfits in their closet. Both very talented, handsome, generous friends of Leslie and Eric – now ours also.
Chez Francois et Lili Werner with Brigitte Hubert
Our day was topped by meeting up again with Corrine and Adrian Ruffy first at a local winery called Cleebourg where we got to taste and purchase exquisitely delicious wines. Then onwards to visit the Village de Gites de Hunspach, a sweet old village where Aunt Annie’s godmother Getel came from and where the two got married. Afterwards, they especially wanted to share with us that evening a very special annual event held nearby called Streisselhochzeit à Seebach: an Alsatian festival with parade, dancing, traditional dress, innumerable food choices and many outside open eating areas all held in a residential community in and among people’s precious flower-laden timber homes. Many of the homes had their own specialty food or craft to offer. Beer was flowing, intricate costumes and head dresses abounded with lots of activities, young people and live music… The local turnout was huge! We felt so very privileged to appreciate this event while visiting Alsace.
Visit to Hunspach with Corrine & Adrien Ruffy
Aunt Annie’s family farmhouse in Hunspach
Alsatian folk dancing
Alsatian folk dancing
Alsatian Maidens in traditional dress
Alsatian girl in traditional dress
Alsatian boy in traditional dress
Alsatian folk parade
Alsatian traditional dress
It was sad to leave Alsace. I never knew how gorgeous the region was. After breakfast with Brigitte, we said our heartfelt goodbye’s and hit the road at 9:00am. Our 8 days in Alsace were uplifting and Loved the beauty of Alsace and will treasure our memories forever.
by Rosie Dennis with additions from Leslie Dennis Rigney
Arriving in the afternoon at the quaint village of Merkviller-Peschelbraun, Alsace, France, we unloaded our suitcases into an old ‘haunted’ homestead owned by Eric’s Aunt Annie’s cousin Brigitte Hubert. Remarkably, this home held the six of us comfortably, (the boys swore they heard unusual creaking noises) becoming a haven of rest when needed as we were very busy for the next 8 days. Brigitte has four sons. Three of them enjoyed extended stays at Hotel Eric n Leslie over the years.
Quickly we drove to nearby Surbourg to visit other friends of Eric and Leslie, the Keizer family (even Julie their daughter was in town from Australia with her fiancé Blake). Eric and Leslie were so looking forward to meeting the parents, Brigitte and Harold, for the first time. When Bryce and Trent were little, Eric and Leslie hosted Julie at their home twice, initially introduced through Auntie Annie’s Alsatian/California train. They helped Julie obtain an internship at Sony and later aided in getting her a job with one of Eric’s friends who filmed commercials. Never having met the parents, Eric and Leslie then invited Joris, Julie’s 16-year-old brother to come for a summer to improve his English. The exchanges proved to be life changing for all and they have since remained in close contact. So, we now have an extended Alsatian family and they have an extended American family.
Julie Keizer & Blake Atkinson
Brigitte & Harold Keizer
Chez Keizer with Joris on the far right
The Keizers welcomed us with refreshments in their gorgeous modern home before we walked to their favorite restaurant to consume many orders of a special Alsatian dish called: tarte flambée…served with wine and beer. Tarte flambée is somewhat like a pizza, but rectangular with a thin, crunchy crust and a cream base instead of a tomato paste base. Yum yum. Because it was their July 14th celebration of Bastille Day, the youngers went off to watch fireworks in the nearby town center with the locals. Ron and I returned back home with Brigette and crashed.
Tarte flambée Alsacienne
Back to the Keizers the next morning for breakfast: Danish lovelies and World Cup cakes in the shape of Soccer jerseys colored bleu, blanc, rouge!!
Celebratory cakes for the 2018 World Cup!
All of us then drove to the beautifully green and lush city of Baden Baden in Germany, a wealthy small city a bustle with shopping tourists. An old fashion car show attracted some of our guys, while the rest of us enjoyed a casual walk along the pristine city center. Our lunch was at a traditional German beer garden, Löwenbräu Biergarten, serving what else? Beer and sausages, accompanied by accordian music.
Baden-Baden Lowenbrau Biergarten
Together at the Biergarten
Ron Dennis enjoying the music??
Leslie Rigney in Alsatian costume
Then off we went to the ruins of a nearby medieval castle for a refreshing hike in the cooling rain on that hot n humid day. At the top, we could see Baden Baden and the valley up to the Rhine river marking the border between Germany and Alsace.
Baden Baden High Castle
Ron & Rosie Dennis
RigneysKandu in Baden Baden’s high castle
Inside the ruins of Baden Baden’s high Castle
Baden Baden from the old castle
Again, that evening, the Keizers lavished us with hors d’oeuvres, wine and a BBQ of scrumptious local sausages while hotly engaged watching the World Cup. After the fantastic win, the guys went off to Haguenau to watch the crazy French impromptu crowds gathered to celebrate the World Cup French Victory. Whoopee! What a coup to be in France July 15thon such an historic occasion winning the 2018 FIFA Soccer World Cup against Croatia?
On Monday Brigette provided delicious coffee, rolls, and fruit from her own trees. There is a small garden on her property where fruit trees offer small apples, etc. The house is where her parents lived and died. It remains in the family as a summer home. Stairs are creaky, rooms full of Alsatian antiques…boys think the house has ghosts. Perhaps…
Hubert Family home in Merkviller-Peschelbraun
We joined the Keizers to go to nearby L’Arbri War Museum in Hatten, Alsace chuck full of Alsatian historical living and remnants of the WWI and WWII periods. Most fascinating was walking into a large bunker, part of the Maginot Line. About 30 were built along the Rhine, across 100 miles. Inside were many war machines left by all countries involved in both wars.
Maginot Line exterior bunker
WWI British tank
Trent Rigney exiting bunker
Interior bunker display
WWI reenactment
Alsatian hardware around WWI
Typical Alsatian living around WWI
Typical Alsatian dinnerware
A huge lunch of baeckeoffe casserole (3 kinds of meats and vegetables baked all day) like a stew, was held at the Keizers’ again. Then off we went to another small village called Betschdorf known for a traditional Alsatian homestead open for tourists and colorful Alsatian pottery, where we got a chance to view the workers painting the charming scenes and flourishes. On the way home, we stopped off at a park created especially for their endemic bird: The Stork. We had no idea how large the birds were.
Rosie exiting one of the many Alsatian pottery stores
There were two parent storks feeding two adolescents. The big nest was crowded when everyone was home. At one point an adult, angered at something, starting screeching and flapping its wings making a loud ruckus. What a performance!
Alsace Mascot: Stork
With Brigitte on Tuesday, we had planned a tour of Colmar, the second largest city in the area. On the way there, Leslie and Eric’s friend Miriam from Strasbourg met us in Kaysersberg to give us a tour of the darling village where old homes were actually built right over the rather fast flowing tributary. So utterly charming. Geraniums flourished in front of shuttered windows…bright red flowers everywhere. Half-timbered homes on the bottom, half plastered on top. Leslie and I bought the cutest white paper luminaries in the shape of Alsatian girls for keepsakes and Eric just had to purchase a beckoning Mirabelle berry tart. Forced to share a bite with each of us, it tasted so good we went back and bought out half the store!
Then off we went for a winehouse tour in Mittelwihr, a renowned wine producing area. Purchased 4 bottles for later. We also quickly stopped off to view the picturesque town of Riquewihr: a picturesque walled-in village that you had to enter via drawbridge. Some of the houses and structures were built in medieval times but most were built in the 18thcentury and are now meticulously maintained and colorfully painted in yellows, oranges, reds, and even pinks. The towns we visited are in the southern section of the famed Alsace Wine Route located as far north as Strasbourg. The northernmost section of the wine route is just west of Strasbourg, with the largest northern wine town being Marlenheim. Colmar in the south is the capital of Alsace’s wine production.
RigneysKandu with amazing Colmar guide Suzanne Dietrich-Spindler & Myriam Rott
Once in Colmar, we met up with Brigitte’s Mother-in-law, Suzanne Dietrich-Spindler, a professional tour guide of Colmar still. She was a very stately lady, 89 year-old strong, who outwalked us all which was especially amazing since it was her second walking tour of the day!! We met her in the lovely Restaurant Pfeffel serving traditional Alsatian dishes like the popular tarte flambée which the boys and I ordered. Eric ordered the pig’s ankle with mustard seed sauce. Yum? Our guide explained that the region of Alsace was one of the richest regions of France and was constantly fought over between France and Germany. Upon visiting the region, the French King Louis XIV declared it: the Garden of France. It has an extensive canal system that taps into the Rhine. The town was divided in quarters based on services provided. Tanning, one of the most lucrative but most smelly, was as usual located on the river but further from the center of town. Colmar’s Tanner’s district was restored between 1968-74 and is now considered upper class living. Dating from the 17thand 18thcentury, they are narrow, deep and tall buildings with half-timbering on the upper floors. They stand on a stone base with no foundations or cellars (too much water underneath).
As merchants became more and more successful, their wealth was shone in their construction. A new floor was added with every generation. Thick wooden beams can be seen bending under the pressure of supporting the new construction. The type of wood used denoted the value of the house. The harder the wood, the more valuable the house. Interestingly enough, at some point, the tax man decided to assess the value of the property based on the number of windows. Thus instantly, windows began to be bricked off and disappear, and or painted over in a trompe l’eouil fashion.
Constructed between 1292 through the early 14thcentury by Franciscans, St. Matthew’s Catholic church came under Lutheran protestant domain in 1543 when the Franciscan monastery closed. The protestants remodeled half of the structure into a protestant church, thus it’s the world’s only ½ Protestant ½ Catholic church under one roof with two separate entrances.
Colmar is considered the most picturesque example of the combination of Colombage or Fachwerk (timber framing, “post-and-beam”) house construction butting up to the canals. There is a dam higher in the river that controls the level of the water ensuring that the water remains the same height at all times. It is with great pride in maintenance that Colmar is a star tourist attraction in Alsace: A Must See! Over each of the stores could be seen an artful depiction of their service: pharmacy, butcher. Colmar is also home of important museums. Unfortunately the Hansi Museum, home of Jean-Jacques Waltz’s famous ‘Hansi’ watercolors that depict delightful Alsatian scenes mostly of children in traditional Alsatian dress, was closed.
Hansi familial art
We did get to visit the birthplace Museum of the sculptor Bartholdi who sculpted the Statue of Liberty, France’s gift to the USA. It was Eiffel who provided the engineering aspect of the statue. The Dominican Church unfortunately was also closed which houses Martin Schongauer’s masterpiece: Virgin in a rose garden. Darnit!
Creation by Bartholdi
by Rosie Dennis with additions from Leslie Dennis Rigney
In 2018 aboard Kandu, we achieved our most extensive traveling since departing Ventura, February 2015. Starting in Malaysia, after the overhaul of our engine and other repairs/upgrades, we sailed Kandu west to India. With Cochin as our base, we enjoyed three weeks of splendid adventures and discoveries, traveling north and south by tuk-tuk, taxi, houseboat, train, and airplane.
India’s TuckTuck mania!
Holy Cow!
Bryce Rigney at Kerala’s Backwaters
Being late in season for a westward Arabian Sea passage, we were eager to be on our way. Heavily provisioned, water tanks filled, and diesel topped-up including additional 10 deck-tied Gerry jugs, we left feeling fully prepared for our 20-day High-Risk Area (Pirate Zone) passage.
Kandu ready to go loaded with 10X20 gallon jerry jugs
The western Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea gave way to the Gulf of Aden with Yemen in civil war to the north, infamous Somalia to the south. All went well, bringing us unscathed to the port of Massawa, Eritrea. Of the 28 boats that transited the Red Sea, only 8 stopped in Eritrea. Few, if any, explored its awkward interior. We took a public bus up into the highlands to the capital Asmara. Shown the sites by a wonderful local friend, nephew of LA friends, it was quite the learning curve, a city with little operational infrastructure.
Continuing up the Red Sea, two days later we stopped in Suakin, Sudan, poked around the Suakin ruins and nearby village, picked-up Uncle Nick, and sailed North to Egypt, stopping briefly at Sanganeb Reef (UNESCO site), its crystal-clear waters perfect for snorkeling.
Onward north, we motor-sailed several days to Port Ghalib, Egypt. We spent 3 weeks total in Egypt, initially diving the nearby Red Sea reefs and then driving inland to visit the ancient sites of Luxor. From Port Suez, we ventured inland to Cairo and the Pyramids of Giza. Yes, we did the most touristic things, like riding camels below the pyramids dressed in traditional Egyptian garb.
Dendarra
Luxor Temple
Luxor Temple Sphynx row
Luxor Temple Interior
Luxor Temple Interior
Feluccas of the Nile, Luxor Temple in background
Valley of the Kings
Luxor camel ride
Temple of Hatshepsut
Hatshepsut Temple with Eric Rigney
Valley of the Queens
Entryway to Temple of Karnak
Temple of Karnak
Temple of Karnak
Temple of Karnak
Egyptian Museum in Cairo: Akhenaton – King Tut’s father
Gold sarcophagus
King Tut’s Golden Mask
Eric and Nick Rigney, Sphynx wannabes
Leslie Rigney kissing the Sphynx?
Eric Rigney at the Giza Pyramids
RigneysKandu at Giza Pyramids
Look out tourist Bryce!!!
RigneysKandu say “Farewell Egypt!”
With slower moving recreational vessels like ours, Suez Canal is transited in two days. Each day, we hosted a different requisite pilot, stopping overnight in a “lake” at a yacht club in Ismailia. Around the world, yacht clubs are mostly just private ocean-view restaurants with little to no support for transiting yachts. We dropped one pilot off in the evening, picked up the other at sunrise. Transiting the Suez Canal was a thrill, passing large ships within a stone’s throw. The second pilot was dropped off onto a moving pilot vessel so we could continue without delay into the Mediterranean Sea.
Kandu pulling into Lake Ismailia while motoring the Suez Canal
Next stop, 2 days away: Cyprus. After a year in various Islamic countries, it was a welcome relief to land in a Western-style country, especially one so steeped in history and philosophy. There, we said goodbye to Uncle Nick, welcomed friends from Washington. Together, from their rented hilltop villa, we spent 6 days exploring the historical sites of Cyprus – including the Turkish occupied north. Then flew to Israel, drove to Jerusalem (the day after our US Embassy opened), the Dead Sea and Palestine to Bethlehem, and flew back to Cyprus.
RigneysKandu floating in Dead Sea of Israel
From a small fishing port in western Cyprus, it was a quick sail to Rhodes, Greece. The Schengen Visa clock was now ticking. 90-days to see Europe, including their Atlantic Islands, not nearly enough time, but we made the best of it. From medieval Rhodes, we sailed to romantic Santorini.
Santorini Island, Greece
Then to Athens, ground zero of Western philosophy. So rich in history, legends, and lore, like Jerusalem, seemingly every corner beheld another historic treasure. There, Uncle Bill joined us, and Bryce jumped ship to spend more time in Athens with a newfound friend, Alex. Kandu sailed west through the Corinthian Canal to Delphi sans Bryce for the first time in three and half years.
Kandu passing through the Corinthian Canal with Uncle Bill
From Greece, we sailed five days across the Ionian Sea to Italy, arriving near Napoli and Pompeii where Bryce re-joined Kandu, having spent a week and half with his buddy. Seeing Pompeii (prominent site on my bucket list) was just the beginning of a GREAT tour of Italy which would come to include beautiful places like: Cinqueterra, Rome, Vatican City, Pisa, Florence, and Venice. Just WOW! Even with all Eric’s and my previous travels and university studies, we never fully appreciated the extent to which over the centuries Italy had accumulated (pilfered?) the world’s artistic and symbolic wealth.
Saint Peter’s Cathedral, Vatican, Rome
From Northern Italy, it was a few short days to Nice, France and La Cote d’Azur. Here, we bid farewell to Uncle Bill (87 yrs young), crew and traveling companion over 5 jammed-packed weeks, visiting three countries together. Marina Nice is centrally located, making all the fun stuff available by foot. The boys, hanging at the beach and playing beach volleyball pick-up games with locals, serendipitously connected with a school mate from the Marquesas! Small world.
Kandu Crew playing Volleyball in the Cote d’Azur!
We caught up with many dear French friends while in Nice before sailing across to the other side of Southern France to Port Corbière, Marseilles. Safely tucked away, we securely berthed Kanduand drove 9 hours up to Paris to pick up my parents at the airport. We would spend the next 5 weeks together, driving to various countries, spending valuable time with more dear friends. So, directly from Charles de Gaulle Airport, with parents’ bags firmly packed in the trunk of our rented van, we were off to dine and stay with friends in Southern Belgium.
While in Belgium, we were hosted by two families, each with two teenage daughters, together enjoying meals of moules-frites, steak frites, and frite- frites; and outings of the must-see sights, including the Grand Place, Atomium, site of the 1950 Brussels World’s Fair, Brugge, Waterloo (Napoleon Museum) and Bastogne (Battle of the Bulge Museum).
Atomium, Brussels with Lara and Elena DemandeGrand Place, Brussels, BelgiumRon and Rosie Dennis, Odette et Pierrot Robert chez Thierry Robert
Bidding sad farewells, we set off to Eastern France, via Luxembourg. A bowl of traditional green bean soup and a long stroll around this beautiful city was all the time we could spare before continuing our second, long toll-highway trek, this time to Alsace.
Through the generosity of several family friends, all of whom are connected with Eric’s Alsatian Aunt Annie, we spent 8 fabulous days filled to the brim with Alsatian splendor: food, wine, beer, history, crafts, architecture, etc. As an added bonus, we witnessed France’s 2018 World Cup championship victory with friends in Surbourg and marched through the streets with celebrating fans, demonstrating their “bleu-blanc-rouge” pride! From Alsace, we made an afternoon sojourn into Germany, sipping the gorgeous resort town of Baden-Baden, exploring its castle ruin and a popular beer garden – Wundabar!
Brigitte, Harold and Joris Keizer at Biergarten, Baden Baden, Germany
Strasbourg, Colmar, the wine tour, ceramics, country festivals, a WWII concentration camp, and meals galore with great friends had us on our way with greater awareness and appreciation, warm hearts, and kilos added to our waistlines via tartes flambées, baeckeoffe casserole, and sauerkraut & sausages.
Colmar, Alsace, France with Brigitte Hubert, Myriam Rott and Ron & Rosie Dennis
From Alsace, we headed west to Paris again, but this time to show Bryce and Trent. Again, through the generosity of another good friend opening her home, we stayed at her place just outside Paris. From there, we drove daily to the nearest metro station to pick up the train into town. We toured many (too many for Bryce and Trent’s taste, but this is their classroom) of the celebrated museums and sites of one of our favorite cities. It’s where Eric proposed to me 25-yrs prior! Eric even drove the boys to the exact spot, at sunrise, just as he had done for me.
Place de Paix at Trocodero, Paris
For their last Parisian evening, Eric and the boys walked from the Arc de Triomphe to a cinema on the Champs-Elysées where they watched the opening night of the latest Tom Cruise MissionImpossible installment. Watching the chase scenes through Paris was surreal as they’d been walking on those very streets less than an hour before. As exhausting as this is to read, it was even more so to live.
Eric, Trent and Bryce Rigney on the Champs-Elysees, Paris, France.
Paris behind us, we headed south through gorgeous countryside to Voiron where we met up with friends with teenage boys. After days of seemingly endless museums, Bryce and Trent jumped on the opportunity to just hang with guys their age, all so handsome, smart, and adventurous. Giving in to pleas to extend their stay, and a promise from the Dad to drop the boys off at Kandu in three days, the four of us left the boys with their new-found friends and headed south sans enfants.
Kandu Crew taking out Serge, Max and Valentin for a ride at Port Corbiere, Marseille.
Not yet done with being spoiled by French friends, we left Voiron for the Southern French coastal town of Meze where we stayed with a couple we’d met in French Polynesia years ago. From their home, we attended a fishing celebration in Meze.
We spent a day at the nearby Medieval town of Arles, an important city in the life of Van Gogh. As with our friends before them, the two nights we spent together felt like a royal affair. After yet another heavy-hearted farewell, we drove east, back to Port de Corbières to meet up with the boys, to explore Marseilles before returning the van, and to prepare Kandu for the sail back to Nice, where Trent had a rendez-vous with an airplane.
In Nice once again, we boarded a commuter train to Monaco…a bucket list destination for my father! Wearing our best “boat clothes” and scrounged up bow ties, we entered the Monte Carlo Casino in style, not “Bond, . . . James Bond” style, but style nevertheless, and basked in the luxury. Castles, cathedrals, and a Formula 1 race track made this a fun, albeit Trent’s last, country visit. By the time he left us, he’d visited 27 since our California February 2015 departure.
Monte Carlo in Monaco with Rosie and Ron Dennis
A bit melancholy, the 7 of us said goodbye to an extremely cheerful (perhaps too cheerful) Trent as he boarded a Norwegian airline plane in Nice, laying-over in Oslo, arriving in Los Angeles to start high school as a freshman. His new home is with his Uncle Nick and Aunt Gita in Calabasas, California. With an abundance of electricity, hot showers, WiFi, Netflix, Mexican hot sauce, and kids his age, Trent is happy.
Nani and Papa still with us, Kanducasted off Nice and motor-sailed 2 days to Barcelona, Spain. Soon after departure, we experienced our first and only crazy Mediterranean wind, quickly rising from 15 to 50 knots of wind with short steep seas and horizontal rain – Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride for one intense hour! My parents didn’t quite know what to think because the captain, Bryce, and I acted as if nothing was unusual.
Our days in Barcelona were exquisite, filled with flamenco music and dancing, delicious Catalan foods, and Gaudi architecture, most notably the Sagrada Familia! Here, after 6 weeks of intense traveling through 6 countries, we bid a tearful farewell to my parents, who flew back to California with an abundance of electricity, hot showers, WiFi, inexpensive wine, and friends their age!
Interior Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain
In Barcelona, we stocked Kandu for a 5-day passage, checked out of Schengen, and motor-sailed across the Eastern Mediterranean to Gibraltar. The next day, Bryce flew solo to London, England for 6 days to meet with Alex, his friend from Greece. Eric and I enacted repairs on Kandu held off during our Schengen rush through Europe. We squeezed in a bit of fun too, touring the sites. Eric discovered a broken bolt supporting the alternator and engine’s freshwater pump. This kept us in Gibraltar longer than anticipated. Once appropriate bolts were acquired, we carefully timed our Mediterranean Sea exit with winds and currents and cast off the dock lines for the Strait of Gibraltar. All went well. For our first Atlantic Ocean stop, we chose Port Mohammedia, Morocco – a fishing port near Casablanca, to which we took a train, and from where we toured, inside and out, the world’s largest mosque outside of Saudi Arabia, Hassan II.
Magnificent Interior Hassan II Mosque
Sailing further south along the West African Coast, we made our way to Marina Agadir. With the engine’s freshwater pump leaking internally, Kandu ended-up docked in Agadir for almost 5 weeks (a month longer than planned), waiting for the new pump to arrive and clear customs. However, we met lovely people and traveled to various nearby cities, fully immersing in the culture and exploring the environs: Essaouira and Paradise Valley by renting a car, and later to Marrakesh by bus, plus Bryce got a chance to surf to his heart’s content at several renowned surf sites, including Taghazout. Souks, tajine, couscous, and avocado-date shakes we enjoyed a-plenty.
Departing Agadir, ‘We Kandu’ sailed deeper into the Atlantic to the exquisitely beautiful resort island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Volcanic craters and surf are among this island’s treasures. We flew to Las Palmas for boat parts and a tour of the Columbus museum.
Volcanic wine vineyards of Lanzarote, Canary Islands
From Puerto Calero, Lanzarote, we sailed southwest to Marina Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde. Porto Grande is Cape Verde’s largest and most protected natural bay.
Sailing Kandu 10 days to Mindelo, Sao Vicente Island, Cape Verde
We arrived just prior to the send-off of 3 world class cruising rallies, organized to help amateur sailors cross the Atlantic, all of which terminate in the Caribbean. It was great fun to be amongst the bevy of so many serious sailors preparing to make an ocean crossing! Thanksgiving, we received spare parts Uncle Bill mailed us, and got stuck an extra week, waiting for replacement bank cards to arrive from Cape Verde’s capital city. Ate lots of cachupa (local breakfast dish) in the meantime. On Dec. 5, we departed Mindelo for what would be our third and final ocean crossing.
Sixteen rock’n’rolling days later, we’ve made it to French Guiana.
Saint Laurent du Maroni Marina, French Guiana.
Whew! We’ll spend Xmas in the country’s second largest city, Saint Laurent du Maroni, then head to Suriname (Dutch) to tour the sites, maybe spy some freshwater pink dolphins, and spend New Year’s. We’ll pass through Guyana (English) before sailing north into the Caribbean, stopping at Tobago/Trinidad (more parts). From there: Grenada, Bonaire, and Curacao. Then entering South America one more time in Columbia, fromwhere we’ll arrange a canal agent to deal with the formalities of transiting the Panama Canal in late February or early March 2019. The only other Central American stop will be Costa Rica. We’ll skip the rest of Central America, sailing directly to Southern Mexico. There are just too many security concerns with coastal pirates and within Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, and Guatemala. Obviously, from Southern Mexico, we’ll continue our northly trek. Puerto Vallarta is where we’ll cross our circumnavigation track. Then it’s a few short weeks, early May, before we clear-in at San Diego, California.
2018 marks our trip’s most prolific year in terms of countries visited (23), oceans and seas crossed (2/6+), and continents touched (4). With about nine more countries, a canal, and a few more seas to cross, we return eager for life’s next adventures. We want to thank you, our friends and family, for following along on our journey, and to so many of you whom we met along the way. Until we meet up again, we send you our biggest virtual hugs and wish those who are sailing, fair winds and weather!
Love Leslie, Eric, Bryce and Trent
REMINDERS
To see where we are on a map in real-time, scroll down on our home page and click on the Delorme link.
We continue to post updates and photos of our travels on our Facebook sites: RigneysKandu, Eric Rigney, Leslie Dennis-Rigney and Bryce Rigney. Bryce and Trent post their favorite photos on Instagram under: Bry.Rig and Tnert_Rigney. If you mostly prefer short video clips, visit us on Youtube.com. Our channels are RigneysKandu and Kandu Crew.
Flying into Paris on Norwegian Air, we were met with excitement and love by our dear RigneysKandu family: Leslie, Eric, Bryce and Trent, who had rented a large SUV to hold us all and our luggage as we began our five-week inland tour of Europe. Late that evening after driving for 4 hours, we arrived in Belgium at beloved friends, the Demande’s. It was still daylight outside even though it was 10 PM. Welcome hugs and welcome beds….just what we needed after a day and a half of travel.
Petit déjeuner Chez Famille Demande
Elena, Lara and Mom Sian allowed us travelers to sleep in while they quietly snuck out to find traditional European breakfast yummies: almond croissants, pain au chocolat, and a variety of fruit all served with orange juice and coffee. Hurray, after long awaited planning, we were in Europe. We were saddened that Michel wasn’t present for the two days of our stay as he was off working, yet we were able to connect with him via facetime to catch-up.
Our first excursion and possibly most important was to a nearby Corné Port Royale chocolate factory warehouse.
Corne Port-Royal Chocolatier
We were allowed to sample any amount of tasty morsels we wanted! Imagine, 9 of us moving through the layers of samples….digesting incredible amounts of scrumptious calories. Next, we drove into Brussels to explore the “Grand Place,” the central square and community plaza of Brussels surrounded by 16thC 7-story buildings including private homes, opulent guildhalls, the city’s Town Hall, and the “King’s House” which today is the Museum of the City of Brussels.
Grand Place, Brussels
With the exception of Bryce and Trent, we had been to this landmark before, but I hadn’t remembered that the fronts of the buildings were so heavily decorated with gold leaf. Impressive! It is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. It is truly a festive sight to see, with a cobble stoned open plaza chock full of meandering spectators and a myriad of restaurants with seating areas spilling out onto the square.
Grand Place Restaurant
Nearby, we made sure not to miss Mannequin piss! With the World Cup in full swing, the little Mannequin piss was attired in Belgian team colors – red and yellow. Groups of young people were also attired in Belgian colors shouting cheers for their team, which would be playing France the next day.
Mannequin piss, Brussels
Sian drove Ron and me back home to rest, while Leslie, Eric and the teens went to see the shiny stainless steel Atomium that was constructed for the 1958 World’s Fair. That evening Sian treated us to a delectable Salmon Dinner. Ron and I felt spoiled and overflowing in familial love!
Atomium, Brussels
Wednesday, in two cars, we drove into Brugge for a walk around the gorgeous old medieval city topped off by taking a pleasurable, quiet boat ride through the channels. The charm of the old, yet well-maintained Danish looking buildings flavored the day. Along the channel were modern art installations: a twisting tower built entirely of old metal chairs and an enormous blue and white whale crafted out of plastics captured from the ocean – a reminder to all that improperly discarded plastics end up eventually in our oceans. Everywhere, the walkways and homes sparkled with cleanliness and order.
Center Plaza Brugge
Brugge canal view
Water captured trash Whale
Bryce Rigney, Lara Demande, Elena Demande, Trent Rigney in Brugge, Belgium
RigneysKandu in Brugge, Belgium with Ron and Rosie Dennis and Sian, Lara and Elena Demande.
Metal Chair Art installation
While the Demandes were cooking up an awesome eggplant casserole, Bryce was outside bouncing flips on their trampoline. On jump number 8, he landed wrong slicing open his shin bone badly enough that it was decided he needed medical attention…and since the French/Belgium soccer game was on, the emergency doctor didn’t address his gaping wound until the game was over (Leslie, Sian and Bryce sat in the waiting room forever). Yup, stitches and no swimming for 10 days…Belgium, unfortunately lost the game.
July 12
After early coffee and rolls with Lara, Sian and Elena, our family packed up, said farewell and headed for Huy. On the way at nearby Waterloo, we entered the Waterloo Napoleon Museum for a comprehensive display and history of Napoleon’s war efforts. A 3-D movie experience made it clear how brutal the Waterloo battle was. Adorned uniforms and horses of Napoleon’s high ranked officers brought to mind the large ego of the infamous leader. All along a glassed-in corridor we saw displays of clothing, equipment, banners, etc. of all the armies involved.
Napoleon Museum at Waterloo
Outside was a monument in the shape of a hillside which had many many steps to arrive at the top. We were all very interested to witness the surrounding areas of battle, which were clearly shown on brass plates for a panoramic 360-degree view.
Ron and Rosie Dennis climbing the Waterloo monument, Belgium
All of us left with a higher interest in and understanding of the Napoleonic wars and his influence on European life during and after his political involvement. Did you know that in order to feed his armies, Napoleon was instrumental in the development of canned food? And did you know Napoleon pushed to establish the metric system as the standard? One of Napoleon’s aims was to unify Europe, to create a ‘European Union’ back in the early 1800’s. Ahead of his time. His downfall was invading Russia, the BIG beast. That was Hitler’s downfall as well!
Getting closer to Huy (a small town with its own fort – proximate to Liege), the Robert family met us at a lovely regional restaurant that specialized in serving Belgium mussels. All of us ate plenty of them along with fries and fine wine. MMMMMmmm good – love the varied tastes of Europe! Later we visited on the back patio of Thierry’s home along with his darling parents and two teenage daughters.
Ron Dennis, Pierrot Robert, Leslie Rigney, Odette Robert, Eric Rigney, Thierry Robert and Rosie Dennis chez Famille Robert
Much more wine, many stories, and memories were exchanged. Leslie and Eric overnighted with Odette and Pierrot, we stayed with Thierry and his girls. It was delightful getting to know Thierry’s lovely daughters even though the language barrier was a little prohibitive.
July 13
Leisurely we formed our group to head off to the town of Bastogne and into the Bastogne World War II Museum, which described in full detail along with modern audio commentary the history of the area and the Battle of the Bulge also known as the Ardennes Counteroffensive, which was the bloodiest American battle of the European campaign. Fought in the final days of the war as a last-ditch effort by the Germans to regain an overland travel route to the Atlantic, the 101stAirborne Americans holding Bastogne were saved by Patton, his tanks and his men’s valiant efforts to break through the lines to deliver supplies because the weather was so monstrous that air support was impossible. It was a large, impressive and modernly organized collection of photos and materials describing all stages of the battle including how neighboring towns were decimated by retaliatory actions by the Germans as they fled.
Bryce Rigney in front of the Mardasson Monument, Belgium
On top of Mardasson Monument
Adjacent to the museum stands an impressive memorial structure, the Mardasson Monument, a three-story building in the shape of a star upon which visitors can climb to the top in order to see better the terrain where so many Americans died. The town center had a large heavily shelled American tank displayed for photo buffs.
Clara and Alexandra Robert with Bryce and Trent Rigney in Bastogne, Belgium.
Prior to the museum we all ate a hearty lunch at a local restaurant that commemorates the 101stAirborne. The 101stAirborne even have their own Bière brune called Airborne– delicious!
Thierry is an avid connoisseur of good food and wine. He’s presently training to become a restaurant sommelier. Upon meeting up after our museum tour, Thierry took us to a delectable sausage and meat store. He purchased numerous cheeses, chicken and sausages for our later-evening meal. My request to stop in the Biggest Little Town in Belgium (Dubuy) on our way home gave us a chance to enjoy beautiful river vistas, walk quaint cobblestone streets and indulge in an ice cream treat.
Dubuy
Ron Dennis in Dubuy, Belgium
Bryce Rigney on the Dubuy waterfront
Later, at home, while the BBQ was firing up dinner, it was fun watching the guys playing with their dog, Phooie, with neighbor cows lowing in the background. The sunlight held until 10:00 pm while we continued to drink way too much of Thierry’s very very fine wine…. What an eventful, beautiful day with loved ones.
Backyard of Chez Famille Robert in Huy, Belgium
I cannot forget to mention our visit into Thierry’s well stocked wine cellar, decorated with wood from wine boxes. He also had two valuable cars stored in his garage, a pristine Cobra along with a Porche. His standards of taste in collecting beautiful prizes is astounding.
Bidding sad farewells to our friends in Belgium, we set off to Eastern France, via Luxembourg. A bowl of traditional green bean soup and a long stroll around this beautiful city was all the time we could spare before continuing our second, long toll-highway trek, this time to Alsace.
Luxembourg
Luxembourg Cathedral
Exquisitely decorated ceilings of Luxembourg Cathedral
Luxembourg specialty: Green Bean Soup!
RigneysKandu Lunch in Luxembourg with Ron and Rosie.
by Rosie Dennis with additions from Leslie Dennis Rigney
Yeah – our mail arrived from our mail service in Florida! We had ordered it weeks ago hoping it would beat us to Cape Verde. Oh well, we can leave Mindelo Marina of Sao Vicente, Cape Verde now after an extended visit of just over two weeks. This has been a lovely place to relax and enjoy the cruising life as Kandu had only a few maintenance projects to complete since most were completed earlier in the Canary Islands and Agadir, Morocco. We’ve met several lovely cruisers here making the Atlantic crossing and hope to see them again in the Caribbean.
We will be casting off the lines tomorrow to sail the Atlantic west to French Guiana. We are excited to get moving again. Everything is ready. Water tanks and diesel tanks are full, the boat bottom is clean as well as the deck, cockpit and the interior. All the laundry has been washed and we’re topped up in provisions.
The music scene is excellent here on the weekends. Typically there is a singer and guitar accompanied sometimes with a cajon drum box. Both weekends we went out to hear the mixed sounds of the tropics combined with Portuguese rhythms topped with a language mix of Portuguese, Creole and English. We actually bought a couple wonderful albums one from their most internationally famous singer – Cesaria Evora: Miss Perfumado. Today’s most popular singer Elida Almeida is featured on her latest album: Kebrada distributed by Sony Music.
These last two days, Bryce has been able to get out and surf the northeast side of the island in the south section of the Baia des Gatas: Praia Grande de Calhau. We met a recently arrived fellow American cruiser, Jeff Morcroft on sv Talaba who was game to join Bryce on some water adventures.
Bryce Rigney and Jeff Talaba, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde.
After college, age 22, while traveling on svGetel across the Pacific with Eric in 1989, I had time to pause from the ‘busy’ness of life laiden full of skills learned across multiple disciplines in order to earn a living, and reflect on how incredibly blessed my path had been up to that point. During that crossing from Hawaii to San Francisco, there was a difficult and rather scary 24-hour period when I pushed myself into a tight corner crevice, crossed myself (unusual for a Lutheran), and prayed. At that moment during the raging sea storm, in the most uncomfortable and frightening circumstance of my life, I thanked God for all the extraordinary experiences that my parents had provided me and the incredible opportunities to learn and to grow unhindered by war, by pestilence, tragedy, sickness, hunger, disability, poverty and even unattractiveness. I acknowledged that I had already lived a terrific life. Overwhelmingly thankful, I was prepared to die. Fortunately, the storm passed and we lived to sail under the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge.
Pondering Blessings
Today, thinking back at that moment and my life up until then, my life had been truly blessed: born in California in the late 1960’s, healthy, strong of body with a decent brain, and an only child of devoted upper-middle class parents. Truly, I was the princess that most of my high school friends perceived me to be, living atop the hill in a big modern house that my father built. Although I never thought, nor think of myself as a princess. I rarely got new clothes; mine were mostly hand-me-downs. My parents owned a record player with basic speakers, a simple medium-sized television and VHS machine to record shows – purchasing movies was out of the question expensive, and renting movies wasn’t a possibility back in the late 1970’s. Spending time on the telephone long distance was forbidden. My parents didn’t often take me out to eat. We drank milk or water with dinner and ate simply. I learned a great distaste for shopping because while my mother loved to go ‘shopping,’ we rarely bought anything. Our big spending was food on special. Before I was ten, I collected aluminum cans, sorting through trash bins to recycle. When I was 10, I sold mistletoe wrapped and tied with a bow to neighbors for a $0.50. Later in high school, I babysat the neighbors’ children. I never received an allowance.
However, what my parents did offer me, above and beyond any material prizes, were experiences. With my mother, we joined a roller-skating club. I was four. Until I was twelve, I spent most of my after-school hours and weekends at the roller-skating rink, taking lessons and practicing. At age six, I started taking piano lessons. A little later I took-up violin in the elementary school orchestra…I was now taking piano and violin lessons.
My mother was a snow ski addict. During the winter months, we would drive up to the Tahoe mountains on Friday afternoons having packed all our food and sandwich materials for a weekend of skiing. At that time, Squaw Valley attracted families to their ski resort by offering children to ski free until age 14. I skied so much as a youth, that by the time I was 16, I was skiing the most difficult runs on the mountain. My mother’s brilliant idea, I attached a horn to my ski pole. While on the chairlift looking down, I would honk the horn to congratulate fellow skiers on their great form skiing and/or crashing. Haha. I used to ski so hard, that my own crashes were enviable…but fortune would have it that I never experienced a debilitating accident. At that time, we skied without helmets.
Then one day, my father showed up with a modest water ski boat. From then on out during the summer months, we would pack-up the El Camino with a camper top (my cousin and I lounged in the back on a cushion reading books – I became an avid reader – no DVD movie players back then) and headed out on late Friday afternoons to the bay area delta for the weekend.
Around age 12, my mother’s interest in roller-skating dwindled. She asked me if I wanted to continue. I was good enough that if I continued, I would have started skating freestyle pairs – a dangerous sport for girls as they are twirled, lifted, and thrown in the air at their peril. At the same time, my interest and skill at playing the violin had markedly grown. We decided that our roller-skating days were over. Instead, we water and snow skied many weekends, I poured myself into local after school sports (softball and soccer), practiced and played the violin, sang in choirs, and improved my mind through academics and reading. Junior high was marked for me by singing in the choir, the purchase of a good violin and playing in the orchestra at the junior college, but most significantly, having to wear headgear to school; before I smiled I was considered a small, cute girl. Haha.
My mouth was such a tangled mess, that the orthodontist required I wear braces and the worst possible: headgear 24 hours a day – even to school. He was going to wire the apparatus in so that I couldn’t remove it. Fortunately, my mother and number one advocate, protested the wiring and assured the doctor I would wear it. In the bathroom, my mother discovered me in tears trying to hide the headgear under my hair. She held me in her arms and said: “You won’t be able to hide it, instead, flaunt it!” From her crafts, she pulled out ribbons and dried flowers and together we decorated it in style wrapping it with bright colors and festooning it with “charm.” Interestingly, I was rarely pointed out or ridiculed. During those months, we arranged at school for me to eat lunch privately in a classroom away from prying eyes. The orthodontist predicted I would need to wear the headgear full time for five months. I determined that would not do. The moment my teeth stopped aching, I would tighten the gear myself. Three months later, my teeth had reached their new permanent place and the headgear was no longer required. I wore braces for just a year and retainers every night thereafter.
While I was in junior high, my mother went back to school to San Jose State University. My grandmother would pick me up from school to take me to violin lessons. Other days, I would attend soccer practice and/or walk home, practice my violin and piano, do my homework. A couple nights a week, I was expected to cook simple dinners – rice and vegetable stir fry and/or spaghetti with salad. In eighth grade, I auditioned for Oakland Youth Symphony Orchestra and was accepted into the second violins. For three consecutive summers, I earned music scholarships to attend La Honda Music Camp in the Santa Cruz mountains to improve my skills and make contacts.
La Honda music Camp
Moving forward in time, as a freshman at San Leandro High School, I auditioned and was accepted to sing in the Notables Choir, and continued to study piano and violin privately.
The day I turned 16, I passed my driver’s license test. My parents were so relieved from having to taxi me around to rehearsals, they allowed me to drive their robust El Camino truck to school and to my numerous music commitments. By that time, I was playing string bass in Young People’s Symphony Orchestra, I was 6th chair of the first violins in Oakland Youth Symphony (OYSO), taking lessons in San Francisco, and heading to school for 7:00 am rehearsals for Pirates of Pizazz, our high school “glee” club of singing and dancing. School mornings, I would pick-up two friends who also sang in the group. As might be expected, with all that driving, before I turned 18, I caused two smallish car accidents where fortunately nothing but the cars were damaged. There is a reason why drivers under 25 pay more for insurance. My parents were kind to me about those accidents as I was driving myself from orchestra rehearsals both times. They had the cars repaired, paid the higher insurance fees, and I continued to drive. Through OYSO I got a chance to travel to Europe…travel without my parents. It was my 16th summer. The travel bug hit me hard.
Kent Nagano conducted OYSO at that time.
Time passed musically. I had started taking French as a Sophomore in high school, and became so advanced that in my Senior year, I finished my high school classes at noon and continued French courses at Hayward Junior College. Between my orchestra classes as a junior high student and the French classes, before I graduated high school, I had already accumulated 58 college credits. I then graduated HS with good grades, but earned unimpressive SAT scores. After appealing my application, University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) accepted me as a Freshman.
I could go on about the blessings of my life through University and beyond. I continued to have and to create opportunities. And then I met Eric. Through him, I found the courage to pursue a career in opera which led to more wonderful teachers and eventually to a Master’s and Ph’d in Music supported by teaching voice and a ‘priceless’ 12-year career singing in the chorus of Los Angeles Opera. These incredible opportunities were afforded to me by hard work and great people who helped and nurtured me along the way. I have never been exceptional at anything…even opera singing…but through much perseverance, I have become very good at a lot of things, even typing.
Eric also did well in his chosen career and we experienced an extraordinary boon; Eric and I were blessed with two very sturdy, healthy, and intelligent sons with whom to share our lives.
RigneysKandu floating in Dead Sea of Israel
And you wonder why I wrote this account that sounds a bit like boasting, why I recorded it ‘out loud?’ I wrote all this as an edification for a thought that has been mulling around in my brain for some time, since I was 22 and sailing aboard sv Getel. Now at almost 52 having traveled the world for 4 years, I have seen so many extraordinary sights, experienced incredible cultural events and have witnessed in person war torn countries, very poor people, and interacted with all types from different regions of the world. I ask myself and God why have I been so blessed? Surely, I have had to struggle in my life, but my struggles, in general, have been self-inflicted as I have toiled to grow, improve my understanding in music, language, writing, math, spirituality, singing, sailing, etc. Was it the environment in which I grew-up and the choices that I made along the way that protected me from horrible hardships? Was it luck to have good health and simply good fortune, and that I have not had to battle against oppression of all kinds?
This morning aboard our sturdy sv Kandu, before writing all this, a song was wafting around in my mind from Rogers and Hammerstein’s “Sound of Music: Something Good.” The lyrics repeated over and over: ‘Somewhere in my youth or childhood, I must have done something good.’ I’m not sure if a good life or having many blessings is a reward for good works in this life or another. It’s entirely possible that because of my “good life” or ‘Princess on the hill’ benefits, I still have much to accomplish of good in the future – to ‘pay it forward’ so to speak. I don’t know what that payment is or may be, or even if it’s necessary in the scheme of things. However, it doesn’t stop me from wondering deeply. I guess I’ll just have to wait and see. Nevertheless, I feel the utmost gratitude for all that has made this outstanding life possible and to those that have been instrumental in this life I have been living.
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